Monday 28 March 2011

Kadikoy, Istanbul: Auf der anderen Seite

First-time visitors to Istanbul often choose to stay in the tourist enclaves of Sultanahmet and Sirkeci, or the trendy shopping districts of Taksim and Besiktas, as these areas are packed with famous sights and are full of accommodations catering to all kinds of clientele. Only those who are relatively familiar with this huge metropole would consider to stay overnight on the Asian side of the Bosphorus. Due to the popularity of Sabiha Gokcen airport as a hub for international budget carriers flying from Europe to Istanbul, Kadikoy is now becoming an increasingly trendy place for travellers to stay at during their time in Istanbul.  


Actually, Kadikoy is a very interesting district and is certainly worth a visit in its own right. Its streets are lined with beautiful nineteenth century wooden bunglows, graceful grand mansions with hidden courtyards and gardens, while in the side lanes one will find plenty of chic, fashionable cafes, wine bars (known as meyhane in Turkish) and al fresco restaurants specialising in fish dishes and high-end Turkish cuisines. The elegant  art deco building of the Süreyya Operası (pictured above), built in 1924, acts as the centre of Kadikoy's cultural scene.


Saturday 19 March 2011

La Bodegueta, Valencia

One thing I came to realise after all these years of travel is, sometimes it really takes a bit of  luck and lots of instinct for any travellers to come across a place that serves authentic reional cuisines at reasonable prices. Although I sometimes do allow myself the luxury of having a proper meal at a renown restaurant (such as one of those honoured by the venerable Michelin guide), in general I am that sort of person who prefers to venture out into places where no tourists would frequent and try out whatever places that catch my attention.


Sometimes I came away from a city empty-handed, without having found anything which really impressed me. But then again, there are some places on earth that just seem to deliver a non-stop supply of such  rustic yet charming unknown little places with lots of local flavour.
Although Valencia is not very well-known outside of Europe as a top culinary destination, the city has an abundance of nice interesting little places all over the town, there is no shortage of decent foods wherever you go.


A golden rule of the thumb is, no matter which country you find yourself in, decent bistros almost always seem to congregate near where the university students are. There are several universities and institutes of higher educations in Valenica, and the area where I stayed at in the first week is full of cheap student and neighbourhood eateries offering delicious food and tapas for a few euros.

Wednesday 16 March 2011

Barrio del Carmen, Valencia

I returned to visit Valencia once more after an absence of several years, and lots have changed in the city - for the better. This vibrant seaside city now has an efficient public transport system, lots of cultural and entertainment facilities, plenty of wonderful eating-places and restaurants, and after staying for one week in a newer neighbourhood in the university district of Valencia, I decided to prolong my stay and move to a more traditional part of town, within walking distance to Valencia's old medieval quarters and the city's beautiful botanical garden.


The monument of Torres de Quart, part of Valencia's medieval city walls and fortification system, is just a few minutes' walk from my rental flat. Once through the gate, you will find yourself  in the district of Barrio del Carmen, surrounded by medival churches, narrow streets, older buildings and lots of nice little tapas bars and restaurants.


During the day, this district might appear to some as somewhat quiet, although it has a very high concentration of resturants, cafes and bars. It is however famous for its night life, and as soon as the sun goes down, the streets and alleys of this part of Valencia immediately come into life.


Monday 14 March 2011

Let's Pray for the People of Japan!!




Thursday 10 March 2011

Illy Caffe in Valencia (2): L'Espresso @ Calle de la Paz

As said, there are several L'espresso cafe bars in Valencia, and this one on the busy shopping street of Calle de la Paz is a nice place to have a coffee break in the afternoon if you happen to be around the corner.


I like this place because of its large windows which offer plenty of natural lights into the cafe. Also the slightly dingy warmth of the ceiling lights offer a touch of radiance and intimacy to the whole interior. It seems like a good place for some serious discussions and small-talks.



Nice Little Places in Barrio del Carmen, Valencia: Taverna Cavallers

This little tavern is located on Calle Caballeros, near Valencia's medieval cathedral. I passed by this place in the afternoon, and decided to have a look that evening after dinner.


It is a small tapas bar which serves cold snacks, seafood tapas and other side dishes to go with wines and drinks. Since I am not fond of any seafood or fish, and my favourite artichoke tapas were not available, I settled for a cup of hot tea instead.


Wednesday 9 March 2011

Nice Little Places in Barrio del Carmen, Valencia: Cafe y Bar Sant Jaume

There are many nice little places in Barrio del Carmen, and I came across this beautiful little cafe while on the way from Torres de Quart to the Cathedral of Valencia. The place is very small, less than a few square meters in total, but has a very original and authentic atmosphere.


As there are only two tables inside, most customers choose to have their drinks outside the bar underneath the trees instead. It seems this little place used to be a pharmacy of some sort, as the word 'pharmacy' could still be seen on the window above the side entrance. Even the wine shelves look very much like glass cabinets and cases specifically used to display and store bottles of lotions, solvents and medicines.


Tuesday 8 March 2011

Illy Caffe in Valencia (1): L'Espresso

There are at least two L'espresso cafeterias in Valenica that serves good illy coffee, but the one located on a side street close to the Placa de l'Ajuntament is a good place to go to for some afternoon coffee with cakes, in part due to its central location, also because of the friendly staffs, although most of them speak Spanish only.


L'espresso is a cafeteria chain in Spain that offers the complete variety of Illy espresso products and all styles of Italian espresso. For instance, while not many Spaniards are familiar with how to make a latte macchiato or a Triestino, staffs at L'espresso can usually conjure up a good cup of one of these standard Italian fares at short notice.


A Charming Little Tea House in Kabatas, Istanbul

Across the road from the Kabatas ferry landing is a charming little tea house located in an equally charming small Ottoman era building with a marble fountain. I am not sure if this place has any name, since there is no sign post or name boards outside, but from what I gathered (I might be wrong though, so please excuse me if my  rudimentary Turkish has let me down), this beautiful building was part of a historical mosque complex  (the Findikli Molla Çebeli Camii) dated from the mid-16th century. 


The small tea and coffee house is being run by two friendly old gentlemen who speak a little bit English. Conveniently located just a few steps away from the Kabatas tramway station, it is a nice place to have a few glasses of Turkish tea if you are on your way from/to Taksim, Besiktas or Eminonu. 


Faros Hotel and Cafe Bar, Sirkeci, Istanbul

It seems fashionable modern-looking bars and cafes are now appearing on the dining scene of Istanbul at such ferocious speed, it reminds me of the sight when countless mushrooms spring up all over the fields after the summer rains. Nowadays there are so many trendy and stylish eating places in and around the district of Sirkeci in Istanbul, sometimes it is really difficult to decide which place to go to for a drink.


During my latest visit to Istanbul, the weather was not being very kind to visitors, so instead of venturing outside in the face of freezing winds and heavy rain, I decided to sit out the chilly winter days in a nice, comfortable cafe instead.


Illy Caffe in Alicante: Cafeteria Il Duomo

An essential part of my holiday experience is to find a nice little place in every town and city I visited, which serves good Italian-style coffee made with illy coffee beans. And Alicante is no exception. As soon as I arrived at the city centre, I immediately set out for the search for a nice place to have my daily round of afternoon coffee.


Cafeteria Il Duomo is just a short distance away across the street opposite Alicante's famous central fresh-produce market, on the city's busy throughfare Alfonso el Sabio. The cafe is run by a friendly owner from Paraguy who attended coffee-brewing training and barista course at Illy's headquarters in Trieste, Italy.


Sunday 6 March 2011

Valencia Revisited, Part Three: The Beach and Port America's Cup Marina

One thing which has puzzled me for quite sometime is, despite the presence of a beautiful beach in Valencia, it seems no one from outside of this city has taken notice of its existence. Unlike nearby Alicante and the Costa Blanca, where beaches are swamped with people in the summer and on weekends, the well-equipped and beautiful sandy white beach of Valencia has been somewhat 'devoid' of visitors. Which, of course, is a good news for people like me who prefer quiet, secluded beach spots to sites of popular tourist onslaughts witnessed elsewhere along the Costa Blanca.


The beach front promenade, which goes on for miles along the coastline, is planted with palms and evergreen scrubs. And rows of hotels with seaview rooms, cafes and elegant al fresco dining restaurants line the side of the boulevard facing the landscaped garden.


Saturday 5 March 2011

Valencia Revisited, Part One: Ciutat de les Arts i les Ciències by Sanitago Calatrava and Felix Candela

In the last ten years, the municipality of Valencia has chosen to pump in huge amounts of money to re-develope certain less privileged parts of the city. The huge cultural and exhibition complex, Ciudad de las Artes y las Ciencias (City of Arts and Sciences), was a multi-million urban renewal project envisaged to provide a new lease of life to a previously neglected part of this fast-growing metropole.


The whole complex is built on the former river bed of the River Turia, which used to run through the centre of Valencia. Designed by renown Spanish architects Santiago Calatrava and Felix Candela, the entire park stretched for several kilometers and is now a popular weekend destination for locals and visitors alike. 


Fans of modernist architectural style would not be failed to be impressed by the bold, futuristic lines of the buildings of the City of Arts and Sciences. Being a native of Valencia, Santiago Calatrava rose to international prominence in the 1990s, following the success of his widely acclaimed design of the giant Montjuïc Communications Tower - also known as Torre Telefonica, a satellite and communications tower built for Spain's telecommunications company Telefonica - at the heart of Barcelona's Olympic Games ground. Nowadays the works of Calatrava can be found all over the world, from Europe to North America and beyond.


Friday 4 March 2011

Valencia Revisited, Part Two: La Lonja de la Seda (Llotja de la Seda)

Known as La Llotja de la Seda in Valencian (La Lonja de la Seda in Spanish), this beautiful Gothic building in the centre of Valencia, built between 1482 and 1548, is a prime example of a medieval Gothic-style civil building in the Mediterranean region.


Nowadays, this remarkable building with trademark Gothic columns, gargoyles and a lush inner courtyard planted with orange tree, is one of Valencia's foremost tourist attractions. Originally a silk exchange for merchants based in Valencia, Lonja de la Seda was inscribed by UNESCO since 1996 as a World Heritage site due to is uniqueness as a purely civilan building built in the  Gothic style, an architectural style otherwise associated with ecclesiastical buildings in the Middle Ages and rarely used among civil buildings.


La Lonja is situated right across the street from Valencia's main mercado or central market. A plaque which commenorates the building's inscription as a UNESCO World Heritage site is erected next to the main entrance to La Lonja.