Eating Out in Bozen: Specks, Knödels, and More Specks

Remeber you are now in an extra-territorial region of Austria, so don't expect any typical Italian food while you are in Sudtirol. Instead, be prepared to embrace Southern German cuisines and lots of high-calorie fatty specks.

This is not to say the quality of food available in Sudtirol are bad. It is just that the majority of them are essentially German /Austrian country cuisines. If you love fried pork cutlets (schnitzels), sauerkraut, pickled  cucumbers, grilled sausages or potato/bread dumplings, then you are in safe hands.

So, what are the regional specialities of Sudtirol?

1. Knödels with Speck
One of the most famous regional specialities of Sudtirol is the Sudtiroler Speck Alto Adige PGI, a special kind of dry-cured ham whose production is regulated under the protected geogrpahical indication (PGI) status. Unlike other cured hams in Italy, Sudtiroler Speck is manufactured by combining two different meat conservation methods - curing and smoking. Speck is an important ingredient in Sudtirol's cuisines, you will find it everywhere from breakfast to noodles and soups and oven-baked dishes. It also makes good gifts as they can be easily stored if unopened in its original vacuum packaging, and adds that extra creamy, savoury taste to your spaghetti carbonara.  

As for knödels, well, they are basically dumplings made with bread, potato, semolina, flour etc. and boiled or poached in water. Usually they serve as side dishes to meat main course but can also be eaten on its own.

I am not a fan of knödels - as they tend to be too filling, even fatty, for my taste - and certainly not someone  who goes to a Paulaner beer garden restaurant while on holidays (I don't even go there while not on holidays). But this is Bozen, and there are not that many places which are still open after 9pm, so I had to make do with Paulaner.

The blue-and-white tiles of the decor ensures a distinctive Bavarian touch to the whole place - Paulaner is from Bavaria and they make sure you are aware of it :)

Bozen/Bolzano: A Provincial Town with an Acute Identity Crisis

What comes to your mind when you combine pristine Alpine scenery with Teutonic efficiency and Italian flaire? Lush green valleys, vineyards in autumn colours, delicious local cuisine with smoked ham, tasty cream pies and cakes, tidy towns and villages yet with such irresistable, romantic charm?

Unfortunately, Sudtirol is not quite what I had expected it to be. Instead of a region which combines all the advantages of Teutonic efficiency and sweet Italian dolce vita, it turns out that Sudtirol has managed to accomplish quite the opposite and ended up with the worst of both worlds: Teutonic aloofness (sometimes almost bordering on rudeness) and Italian efficiency.

As soon as I stepped out of Bolzano's train station, I thought I had already crossed the border into Austria. The streets, the cathedral, the atmosphere, the way houses and things are built and organized in Bozen are all so teutonic, there is almost nothing Italian about the whole town, except for the street signs with Italian names and the occasional splattering of Italians spoken on the street.

The problem with Sudtirol is, they are suffering from some kind of acute identity crisis. They refuse to be seen as Italian - fair enough, since I can imagine ten thousand reasons of not being wanted to be seen as Italian as well - but they are neither German nor Austrian too. In spite of their efforts to crave out their own cultural identity over the past 90 years, the population and the villages still seem to be at a loss about who they really are.

Cafes of Turin: Some Places where Ordinary Folks have their Coffee and Lunch

The thing I love most about Turin is, the locals take their coffee seriously. And they do it in style too, with healthy salads, delicious pastas, fruit salads and other goodies on the side.

1. EXKI, Turin 
Around the corner of my hotel near some of Turin's most exclusive shopping areas, is a self-service cafe-restaurant which offers tasty food made of organic ingredients and good coffee made with Illy coffee beans.

Although Italy is well known for its gourment culture, the concept of organic farming and bio-food have only recently taken hold in the social consciousness of city-dwellers in Italy. Maybe that's because most Italians still eat relatively well - nutritious and healthy - compared to their Northern American counterparts, and the taste and variety of agricultural produces available in Italy's markets are still very 'local' in terms of origins, unlike some other industrialised countries in western Europe such as UK or the Netherlands, where a large proportion of fruits and vegetables are no longer home-grown; hence there is no such great urgency in Italy to convert to the religion of organic supremacy, or to promote organic foods by all means.

Value for Money in Turin: Follow the Students

As someone once told me: the best way in Italy to find a value-for-money place for great food at bargain prices is to follow the students. And I have been following this rule for years, so far it has almost always been proven right. In fact, this rule applies to many places all over the world, but that is another story ....

I simply have to recommend this nice little place in the centre of Turin, on the glamourous shopping boulevard of Via Po, near the university buildings. Given its location on one of Turin's busiest and most well-patronized throughfares, I would have expected the prices for a decent meal in this locality to be quite steep. But no, thanks to the presence of a sizeable student body attending lectures in university buildings nearby, many small cafes and restaurants are present which offer delicious buffet dinners at inexpensive prices. And they are really good value for money, even by my stringent standards (and I can be a very fussy customer, mind you).

The cafe with self-service dinner buffet is located at the long arcade that runs along both sides of Via Po. I was first attrcted to it thanks to the sign outside the entrance, which says 'A Drink and Buffet for 8 euros'.

Espressamente Illy, Turin: Illy Caffe in the Heartland of Lavazza

Italy's contribution to modern civilization comes in the form of its roasted coffee beans. Italian coffee beans are known throughout the world, and are the preferred beans of choice amongst coffee experts from Barcelona to Rio.There are dozens of coffee bean roasters in Italy, and each region has its own preference in terms of strength, aroma, and crema. For me, my favourite brand of roasted coffee beans is Illy Caffe, with its elegant aroma and nutty, caramel-like velvety texture and smooth, subtle aftertaste. 

In recent years, Illy has been busy setting up a series of modern and stylish concept coffee bar/bistros all over the world known as Espressamente Illy. I am a big fan of these Espressamente Illy bars, and have always made an effort to locate them wherever I go. The good thing I love about Espressamente Illy is, in addition to wonderful espresso and coffee at reasonable prices, they also have simple yet tasty bistro lunch, savoury hot snacks and pasta, as well as freshly prepared salads, desserts, pastry and cakes on offer.

Verona: Pretty City but Overrun by Tourists

The city of Verona is the prime example of how a provincial town of modest size, thanks to the good fortune of it being the main setting of a piece of well-written literary work, could attain global immortality and tap the enormous tourism earnings that come along with such free publicity. To put it in a less flattering way, Verona is living off its reputation as the hometown of Romeo and Juliet, and the city has probably one of the highest density of tourists per sqaure meter in the whole of Italy - probably on par with Rome, Venice and Florence. The warning signs are up when, no matter where you go, you hear English and Mandarin Chinese everywhere, and expensive non-Italian boutiques such as Louis Vuitton or Burberry are situated right next to the town's central landmark. 

Granted, Verona has a quite well-preserved medieval town centre, and the city has several sights worthy of a visit, even by European standards. But somehow I found the city, although pretty, lacks an authentic charm and the atmosphere is very a superficial one. At many places within the Old Town, it simply smells of gross commercialisation. Everywhere you go within the city centre, you see shops, restaurants, bars and establishments which are geared towards the tourist trade. You need to venture into the unmarked side streets in order to experience how locals go about with their daily chores in Verona, but even then, prices are steep for a provincial town and service not always friendly.
Somehow I was relieved that I did not opt to stay two nights in this town.
 

Piazza Bra is the main square near the Roman Arena of Verona. It is one of the places favoured by both locals and tourists alike, to see and to be seen. Countless bars and restaurants line the side of the square, menus are available in all major languages, and some of them remain open late. You can enjoy your meal or drinks al fresco and enjoy the sight of the Roman arena and the busy flow of tourist traffics on the square until late in the night.

Located at the end of Corsa Porta Nuova which links Verona's old town with the train station, Piazza Bra is also conveniently located near the main shopping districts of Verona, as well as the Opera House, the Tourist Information etc. 

The Many Harbours of Rhodes: A Simple Guide and Some Basic Orientations

There are several harbours in Rhodes Town: 

1. the Commercial Harbour (again divided into an International Arrivals Area and a Domestic Port)

2. the Mandraki Harbour

3. the Piraeus Port where normal passenger ferries operated by ANEK Lines, Bluestar Ferries, and Hellenic Seaways disembark. Do not confuse this harbour with the Domestic Port within the Commercial Harbour currently used by Dodecanses Seaways. This harbour is the furthest and most isolated of all harbours in Rhodes, located about 1km outside of the Old Town.

1) The Commercial Harbour: 

The Commercial Harbour of Rhodes is divided into two parts, the International Arrivals harbour, and the Domestic port. This paragraph deals with the International Arrivals areas of the Commercial Harbour. Passengers who arrive with catamaran, hydrofoil or normal car ferries from Turkey all disembark at this harbour. Passport control facilities are located in the white building with red curved roof in the centre of the photo. After disembarkation, passengers are required to proceed to international arrivals to have their passport stamped, after which they will pass through the customs and exit the Commercial Harbour areas through the main gate.

Shopping in Italy: Turin

For me, there is no other better place in Italy to squander money than in Turin. This city is meant for serious shopping. From international luxury boutiques (e.g. Hermes) to independent small retailers to family-owned leather shops, Turin offers excellent shopping opportunities for those who know what they want.

This being one of the most important cities in Italy, needless to say all the major players in Italy's fashion industry are present. On Piazza San Carlo and the adjacent Via Roma, as well as Via Giuseppe Luigi Lagrange parallel to Piazza San Carlo, one can find international boutiques and prestigeous names such as Hermes, Max Mara, Ferragamo, Mont Blanc, Louis Vuitton, Armani, Gucci, Prada, Chanel, Dior, etc., as well as many other Italian brands. The advantage of shopping in Turin is, being somewhat off-the-beaten-tourist-track, you can look around the shops at your own pace, nobody will try to hassel you, coerce you into buying something, or attempt some aggressive selling tactics on you. And you don't have to push you way around the boutiques amid masses of package-tour tourists from the US and Asia, nor fight your way through the shopfloors till you reach the cashiers. Unlike Florence or Venice, shops in Turin in general do not carry much tourist stuffs. Which is good as I am sick of seeing precious shop spaces in prime locations stocked up with cheap Made in China tourist souvenir and memorabilia. 

Turin: Heartland of Lavazza, Beautiful Cafes, and Slow Food Movement

Turin has been one of my favourite Italian cities, alongside Trieste. These two cities are with any doubt the coffee capitals of Italy. There are plenty of splendid coffee houses in Turin, and the city is proud of its culinary traditions.

Indeed, the capital of Piedmont and the former capital of the Kingdom of Savoy has lots of offer in terms of food and wine. The region of Piedmont is well known for many culinary products and alcoholic drinks, including the world famous Barbera d'Asti red wines, vermouth (essential ingredient for martini and a wide range of other cocktails), as well as white truffles. Although Italy do not grow its own coffee, Turin is the hometown of Lavazza, the Italian coffee giant which is a major player in the global speciality coffee market. And a city that takes its coffee seriously, their food cannot be too far off the mark either.

Grikos: Beach Holiday on Patmos

Those who are equating Greece with beach holidays might find themselves a little bit lost on Patmos, as the island is not geared towards such form of tourism at all. There are some beautiful coves with stunning sceneries for those who are looking for a nice spot in the shade and a bit of a swim in the Aegean, but in general beaches on Patmos are slightly on the lacking side. If you are attracted to rocky landscapes and scenic hidden coves, however, Patmos might be the right place for you.

Just a short drive outside of Skala, Grikos is a little settlement with a beautiful bay and a mini stretch of sandy beach. On a nice day, it is possible to walk all the way from Skala to Grikos; the scenic path alongside the winding road offers great views of the harbour of Skala and the Aegean Sea, plus the islets further ashore. Hence lots of photo opportunities for those who are travelling with their multiple cameras. The walk takes about 40 minutes to an hour, depending on your speed and the time you spend taking photos along the way.

Chora, Patmos: Peace and Serenity

The hilltop village of Chora on Patmos is a charming village with labyrinth-like narrow alleys, photogenic white houses, and an expansive view of the harbour of Skala and surrounding coves. Althouh Chora is the administrative centre of Patmos and home to Patmos' No.1 tourist attraction, few visitors actually stay overnight in the village. As soon as the Monastery is closed, the whole village became deserted and the narrow winding streets found themselves in a state of strange quietness.

When the sun is shining and the sky is blue, Chora is a pretty place to be. The village has some nice little squares dotted with family-run taverns that serve unpretentious local cuisines and light snacks. It is worth spending an hour or two strolling through the little streets of Chora, perhaps sit down at one of the modern little cafes and sample the sights and sound of this holistic little village.

Patmos: the Holy Island

Patmos is a beautiful Aegean island off the coast of Turkey. Although by all means worth a visit in its own right, nowadays the island of Patmos is primarily famous throughout the world because of one of its former residents - St. John the Apostle (St. John the Theologian), who was banished to the island in 95 A.D. from Ephesus and supposedly wrote the last book of the New Testament, the Book of Revelation, in a cave somewhere up the hill of this small rocky Aegean island. Because of this, Patmos is now home to an impressive hilltop monastery and a popular place of holy pilgrimage to Christians. Even secular tourists are drawn in hordes to Patmos in order to visit the holy grotto and the beautiful religious relics and art treasures housed in the museum of the Monastery of St. John the Theologian.

Picturesque Suburbs of Istanbul (Part 5): Bebek

Of all the suburbs on the European side of Istanbul, Bebek is probably my favourite. It is one of the most affluent seaside residential neighbourhoods in all of Istanbul, with beautiful tree-lined streets along the Bosphorus and pretty wooden houses, exclusive villas and modern penthouse apartment with balconies which offer splenid views of the Bosphorus Straits.   

Like all other exclusive leafy suburbs of Istanbul, Bebek is devoid of foreign tourists, but its marina is full of expensive yachts, while its elegant streets are a good place for some serious shopping for fashion-conscious visitors. 

The House Cafe, Bebek: Central European Flaire in the Middle of Istanbul

The House Cafe is a fairly well-known bistro-cafe chain in Istanbul. Aimed at the city's affluent middle-class consumers, the House Cafe has opened up shop in some of the most fashionable shopping malls (e.g. Istinye Park, Canyon Shopping Mall) and exclusive residential districts of Istanbul (Bebek, Etiler, Sisli). 

Prices are not cheap, almost on par with major cities in western Europe, but when compared to similar establishments in other parts of Istanbul or major coastal resort towns such as Antalya, the House Cafe actually offers quite decent fares at comparatively reasonable prices.

One of my favourite House Cafe venues is the one in Bebek, a petite yet elegant leafy suburb of Istanbul. The decor reminds me of those stately fin-de-siecle Kaffeehaeuser in Central Europe, notably Vienna.

Picturesque Suburbs of Istanbul (Part 4): Istinye

The neighbourhood of Istinye is not very well-known amongst foreign visitors, but locals flock to the little waterside village, about 40 minutes by car on the European side of the Bosphorus, for its restaurants and views.

Picturesque Suburbs of Istanbul (Part 3): Rumeli

Most people know about the famous Rumeli Hisari (Rumeli Castle) on the European shore of the Bosphorus, but few have bothered to spend more than just an hour in this scenic little quarter and enjoy the pleasant atmosphere of its traditional waterfront tea gardens and European-style roadside cafes.

Just like in the neighbouring suburb of Arnavutköy, there are also many beautiful Ottman wooden mansions in Rumeli. Rents in this part of Istanbul are certainly not cheap, but the elegant apartments and houses which dotted the hills and slopes overlooking the Bosphorus are among some of the most sought-after real estates in the country.

Picturesque Suburbs of Istanbul (Part 2): Arnavutköy

Arnavutköy, 'Albanian Village' in Turkish, is a small suburb in the European shore of Istanbul, famous for its colourful wooden houses that lined the waterfront of the Bosphorus.

Before the great fire of 1877, Arnavutköy was predominantly inhabited by Jews, followed by ethnic Greeks and Muslims. Nowadays Arnavutköy is a chic district with many up-market fish restaurants and bars frequented by affluent Istanbulites.

Along the open marina that lined the waterfront promenade, one could spend a leisurely afternoon strolling along the Bosphorus and admire the beautiful sceneries along the way.

Picturesque suburbs of Istanbul (Part 1): Beşiktaş

It is a pity that most of the foreign visitors to Istanbul choose to stay within the tourist ghettos in and around Sultanahmet; as a result of which, few of them have actually managed to venture outside of the  Holy Golden Tourist Triangle of  Sultanahmet - Taksim - Eminonu. Being a city that straddles both Europe and Asia and surrounded by water on almost all sides, the city of Istanbul has so much more to offer  in terms of tourist attractions than just oriental bazaars, Ottoman mosques and museums. Both on the European and the Asian shores are plenty of beautiful leafy suburbs, full of tree-lined streets, picturesque marinas with lighthouses, waterfront promenade, 19th century European-style villas, mansions, and grand public buildings, which remain relatively unknown to foreign visitors. Be it Kadikoy and Fenerbahce on the Anatolian side, or Istinye and Bebek on the European side, these marvellous little neighbourhoods of Istanbul, with its diverse architectural, cultural and historical heritage and offering postcard-perfect views of the Bosphorus, are worth at least one full days' visit.  Virtually all of them are easily accessible by bus or boat from downtown Istanbul.  

Hotel Hellenis, Patmos

When I was on Patmos, I stayed at the small en-suite rooms operated by the owners of Hotel Hellenis. The place is right next to the hotel itself, is brand new, clean and has everything one needs for a short stay on the island. The owners are friendly and they also have several self-catering units for rent.

In total there are four apartments, each unit has a double bed, shower/toilet attached, 24 hours hot water, air-conditioning, refrigerator in room, TV, kettle for making tea and coffee, as well as table and chairs for occupants of each unit on the patio outside the rooms. The patio is a common area shared by all occupants.

The whole house is painted in the tradmark Greek white-and-blue colours, with the exception of the chairs.

Colmar: Picturesque Little Village in Alsace

Bordering River Rhine and sandwiched between France and Germany, the historic region of Alsace has had a very turbulent past. During the 19th and the 20th century, Alsace was the region fought over first by Prussia and France during the Franco-Prussian War, followed by Germany and France during the two world wars.

After 1945, Alsace became once more part of France, but the region has maintained its distinctive historical and cultural characteristics. To a large extent, Alsace has the best of both worlds: the region's towns and villages display an orderliness and efficiency usually known to the Teutonic world, yet they still have that inherent sereneness and colourful celebration of life, which are trademarks of French towns and cities.

Colmar, about an hour by train south of the regional capital, Strasbourg, is a picturesque little town with lots of pretty medieval timber-framed houses and countless tourists throughout the year. Most of the visitors are from across the Rhine, as it is an ideal day-trip destination for those who live across the border in Germany.

Kini: Sunset in the Cyclades

The island of Syros has a regular municipal inter-village bus service that connects the main town, Ermoupolis, with the various outlying coastal villages of Syros. Although the network only covers half of the island, it is a good and cheap way for travellers who are short of time to explore the island within a few hours. The bus departs from the municipal bus station near the harbour; one round around half of the island would take about one and a half hour.

There are several villages on Syros, both inland and coastal, which are worth a visit. The owner of the guest house in Ermoupolis recommends Kini, as it is the place, she said, 'with the most impressive sunset on the whole Syros'. 

Darmstadt: Modern City with a Pretty Touch

Although barely 20 minutes by train from Frankfurt am Main, many visitors to Germany simply look past Darmstadt in favour of her more famous neighbours such as Heidelberg. But Darmstadt is a city with lots of attractions, especially the array of pretty 18th century architectures, such as the grand Ducal Palace in the city centre, as well as the visually stimulating Jugendstil buildings in the affluent suburbs, just a short walk away from Darmstadt's city centre.

Darmstadt is well-known in Germany for its excellent technical university, as well as being the centre of high-tech research in the fields of chemical engineering and material sciences. Thanks to the presence of a sizeable student and researcher population, the city has many good cafes where people from difficult areas of study could sit down together and exchange ideas.

Syros: Capital of the Cyclades

Although it is the capital of the Cyclades Islands, the island of Syros is not as widely known as its more illuminous neighbours of Mykonos and Santorini. Most visitors to either Mykonos or Santorini would have passed by Syros on their way to the islands, but few have bothered to spend a few hours on Syros.

Actually Syros is quite a pretty island, and is a good place for shopping and dining. As I was just arriving just from Ikaria, Samos and Patmos, Syros did not impress me at the first sight, but its attraction lies elsewhere. One does not go to Syros to look for quaint villages or pristine beaches or holistic atmosphere, but for night lifes, shopping and going out with friends. Of all the Greek islands I have visited, Syros has some of the most interesting and lively restaurant scenes. Given that Syros is not a big island, the choices available are actually quite bewildering.

Evdilos: Isolated Fishing Village on the 'Red Island'

Ikaria is different from most of the Greek islands I have visited. It is not reliant on tourism at all. In fact, tourists are such a rarity on this island that locals would cast an extra look or two when one appears in the town square of Evdilos, the island's second port.

The island of Ikaria also has an unusual social composition. Once the place where Greek communists were exiled by the Junta government following their defeat in the bloody Greek civil war, the islanders of Ikaria came under the intellectual influence of communist exiles and struck up a close friendship with communism. Even now, the communists could still obtain about 30% of the votes in Ikaria when their national average is less than 3%. Hence Ikaria is known as the 'Red Island' in Greece.

Kokkari: Picturesque Little Village on Samos

Kokkari is my favourite village on the Greek island of Samos. I came across this little village by sheer coincidence. When I visited Samos for the first time a few years ago,the one-day island tour which I participated in stopped at Kokkari for half an hour on the way back from Karlovasi to Samos Town. I spent this half an hour walking around the pretty little harbour of Kokkari, now a haven of beachfront small bars, taverns, restaurants and shops. For some reason, I was impressed by that blissful blend of noise and colours on that hot, sunny June afternoon, and this impression of Kokkari has left its imprint in my mind ever since.

In terms of popularity, Kokkari is a rather 'posh' place amongst the resorts on Samos. There are no high rise package holidays hotels or grand resorts here. Most of the accommodations available are either small, family-run hotels or self-catering apartments. Prices are not cheap in Kokkari, but this seaside village has a unique, intimate atmosphere which makes it all the more special.

Jerash: Ancient Roman City and the Best Preserved Roman Ruins outside of Italy

In addition to Petra, Jordan also has a wealth of other world-class attractions, most notable the Roman ruin of Jerash, and the medieval fortress-castles which scattered around the hills and deserts of northern Jordan.

The best time to visit Jerash is early in the year or from November onwards. The ruins of Jerash is situated right in the centre of modern Jerash. Frequent buses connect Jerash to Amman. Alternatively, all hotels and guest houses in Jordan will be able to offer visitors private tours to Jerash at a reasonable price.

The ruins of Jerash are considered by many as the most extensive and best preserved Roman ruins in the world outside of Rome. In terms of size and scale of the already excavated site, Jerash is probably bigger than Ephesus in Turkey.

In Memory of the 95th Anniversary of ANZAC Day, 2010: Visiting the Gallipoli Battlefields on a Cold, Rainy February Day

                                     "Those heroes that shed their blood 
                                                    And lost their lives. 
                  You are now lying in the soil of a friendly country.                                                      
                                                Therefore rest in peace. 
                        There is no difference between the Johnnies 
                And the Mehmets to us where they lie side by side 
                                               Here in this country of ours. 
                                                     You, the mothers, 
                            Who sent their sons from far away countries 
                                                 Wipe away your tears, 
                                    Your sons are now lying in our bosom 
                                                   And are in peace 
                   After having lost their lives on this land they have 
                                           Become our sons as well."
                
                                                                       Mustafa Kemal Atatürk, 1934