Sunday 28 March 2010

Hasankeyf: 10,000 Years of History soon-to-be-lost

Although I already read about the controversial Ilisu Dam irrigation project before I actually visited Hasankeyf, once I had seen this place with my own eyes, however, it made quite an impact on me that I felt compelled to write something about this place, whose very existence has come under threat due to the construction of the dam project.

Hasankeyf, a Kurdish village in the predominantly Kurdish province of Batman in Southeastern Turkey, is a unique place, even for a country like Turkey, where ancient sites and towns with centuries of history are commonplace all over the country. One of the oldest continuously inhabited settlements in the world, this small village, situated above the limestone cliffs overlooking the canyon of the River Tigris, is like a living open-air museum, with a history dating back almost 10,000 years, spanning some 20 different cultures. Relics of several major ancient and medieval civilizations can be found in and around Hasakeyf - Romans, Byzantines, Artukids (Artuklu in Turkish), Ayyubids, Ottomans -  all left their marks on this medieval village.

Thursday 25 March 2010

Beautiful Cafe in Trieste: Caffe Tommaseo et al.

Trieste is the home town of illy caffe, one of the premium coffee beans brands and my personal favourite. Being the birthplace of the world's best espresso beans, Trieste has an abundance of good cafes, ranging from the traditional elegant Viennese-style coffee houses (Caffe Tommaseo, Caffe San Marco, Caffe degli Speechi, Caffe Stella Polare etc.), to the ultra chic and stylish modern cafes (How about Espressamente illy, the funky coffee joint operated by illy caffe itself?).

A stroll through Trieste's compact city centre will bring you past some of the most authentic coffee houses in Europe. Cafes in Trieste are not quite like those in other Italian cities: they are not just a place to have a cup of cappucino or espresso whilst on your way to work, but an institution of ritual and tradition.

Tuesday 16 March 2010

Urfa: Abraham, the Holy City, and the (Holy) Fish Lake

With thousands of years' history, the town of Sanliurfa (or Urfa in local usage) is a must-visit place for those who are interested in biblical sites, archaeology and ancient history.

Located close to the Syrian border, Urfa is a Kurdish town with a predominantly pro-AKP (Justice and Development Part, the current ruling party of Turkey) populace. In spite of their ethicity, many locals openly display their disdain of PKK and their dislike of Diyarbakir (the hotbed of Kurdish independence politics).

Monday 15 March 2010

Midyat: Ancient Town, Friendly Folks, and Beautiful 'Sila'

Midyat, about 40 minutes away from Mardin, is a pretty town with many beautiful traditional rose -colour sandstone mansions surrounded by high walls (known as 'Konagi' in Turkish). The history of the town dates back thousands of years and is a melting pot of various cultures, religious and ethnic groups.

Like all border regions in the world, the population of Midyat, as well as those of the towns and villages close by, has a very mixed population that live alongside one another in a somewhat contrived state of peace. For thousands of years, Arabs, Kurds, Turks and Syriac Christians (as well as Armenian Christians until they were driven out of the country in the early 20th century) are all parts of the social landscape. The region around Midyat also has one of the highest concentration of Syriac-Christian monasteries, some of which are still in use today.

Trieste: the Hidden Gem of the Adriatic


There is something special about Trieste, the polyglot city tucked away in the north-easternmost corner of Italy's Adriatic coast.

I first came across the name many years ago, while reading a biography of James Joyce, who spent more than a decade in this pretty port city teaching English. The very name of Trieste invokes a certain mystique, a sense of nostalgy, and it immediately set my imagination alight: the name seemed to personify some long-lost grandeur, sadness, and a misplaced sense of identity and loyalty.