Although it is the capital of the Cyclades Islands, the island of Syros is not as widely known as its more illuminous neighbours of Mykonos and Santorini. Most visitors to either Mykonos or Santorini would have passed by Syros on their way to the islands, but few have bothered to spend a few hours on Syros.
Actually Syros is quite a pretty island, and is a good place for shopping and dining. As I was just arriving just from Ikaria, Samos and Patmos, Syros did not impress me at the first sight, but its attraction lies elsewhere. One does not go to Syros to look for quaint villages or pristine beaches or holistic atmosphere, but for night lifes, shopping and going out with friends. Of all the Greek islands I have visited, Syros has some of the most interesting and lively restaurant scenes. Given that Syros is not a big island, the choices available are actually quite bewildering.
Syros' main town, Ermoupolis, is a very attractive town with a beautiful port. When the ferry approaches the dock, one could not fail but be attracted to the picturesque pastel-coloured houses and buildings which lined the waterfront and stretch all the way up the slopes of the hills overlooking the harbour.
Being the administrative capital of the Cyclades and the seat of the regional court, Syros has a sizeable civil servants population. The numbers of residents on Syros throughout the year remain static, and shops and restaurants are open as usual during the cold winter months. This lends a very natural, authentic flaire to the island. From restaurants to shops, the retail sector in Ermoupolis cater largely to the locals; they are not those tourist-oriented places on Santorini or Mykonos selling identical tourist stuffs and cheap souveniors and close down shop when the winter approaches. Most of those who visit Syros are Greeks from Athens who come to Syros' villages for the weekend.
Being the administrative capital of the Cyclades and the seat of the regional court, Syros has a sizeable civil servants population. The numbers of residents on Syros throughout the year remain static, and shops and restaurants are open as usual during the cold winter months. This lends a very natural, authentic flaire to the island. From restaurants to shops, the retail sector in Ermoupolis cater largely to the locals; they are not those tourist-oriented places on Santorini or Mykonos selling identical tourist stuffs and cheap souveniors and close down shop when the winter approaches. Most of those who visit Syros are Greeks from Athens who come to Syros' villages for the weekend.
The main shopping district of Ermoupolis consists of several streets with small retailers and independent boutiques and family-run shops, no sights of big urban chains yet. Syros is famous for its nougat confectionaries, including a kind of flat crispy biscuits with a strong nougat flavour.
There are several very tastefully decorated cafes near the main square of Ermoupolis. Some double as art galleries and offers a good place for some relaxed gatherings amongst friends in the shade of the old arcades.
For those who prefer to have their coffee in the open air, numerous cafes and bars line the scenic harbour of Ermoupolis, each offering unobstructed views of the harbour and the ferries that come and go.
The restaurants at the waterfront are also the place to see and to be seen, especially in the evening time, when virtually the whole town would come out and spend hours at one of the places eating, drinking and chatting. As soon as the night falls, the entire waterfront would spring into life. The lively scene along the harbour, with all the noise, cheers and music, reminds me of Kadikoy in Istanbul.
Syros is worth at least one day's stay. If you have time and feel like having a look at how normal life in a regional Greek town is like, spend an evening strolling around the back lanes of Ermoupolis, soak up the lively atmosphere near the harbour, and you will find that the Cyclades have much more to offer than just Mykonos and Santorini.
Copyrights@2010. All text and photos by YC Cheng. All Rights Reserved.
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