Cafes of Vienna: Kleines Cafe

This little place is tucked away at the corner of Franziskanerplatz inside Vienna's central district (Innenstadt). The cafe, true to its name, is indeed a very small one, with barely ten sets of chairs and tables inside, but it is a truly warm and intimate place to have your daily round of coffee and cakes, especially on a beautiful sunny autumn day or in the quiet hours after the evening meal.

Being at a part of Vienna's old town some distance away from the usual beaten tourist tracks, this small cafe is a popular hangout of local students and the general public. As it is not as crowded or well-known as the other big name historical cafes in the city centre, one does not have to queue up for hours before gaining admission to the premises. Once inside, one can spend as much time as one fancies reading, writing, or sampling the coffee, without the need to feel obliged to give up the seat for those waiting at the door. 

Cafes of Vienna: Cafe Prückel

Founded in 1904, Cafe Prückel is one of my favourite traditional Viennese cafes. Located near the Universität für angewandte Kunst Wien (University of Applied Arts and Design), this cafe has been a favourite hangout for lecturers and students of that institution for ages.

Although Cafe Prückel is considered one of the best known Viennese Kaffeehäusern, the place has retained its sense of authentic charm, in spite of its location on Vienna's prestigeous Ringstrassen. Its airy, sleek modernist interior, designed by famous Viennese architect Oswald Haerdtl in 1954, introduces plenty of natural light into the interiors of the cafe. This classic example of 50s' modernist design has been a trademark of Cafe Prückel for more than half a century.

Eating Out in Bozen: Specks, Knödels, and More Specks

Remeber you are now in an extra-territorial region of Austria, so don't expect any typical Italian food while you are in Sudtirol. Instead, be prepared to embrace Southern German cuisines and lots of high-calorie fatty specks.

This is not to say the quality of food available in Sudtirol are bad. It is just that the majority of them are essentially German /Austrian country cuisines. If you love fried pork cutlets (schnitzels), sauerkraut, pickled  cucumbers, grilled sausages or potato/bread dumplings, then you are in safe hands.

So, what are the regional specialities of Sudtirol?

1. Knödels with Speck
One of the most famous regional specialities of Sudtirol is the Sudtiroler Speck Alto Adige PGI, a special kind of dry-cured ham whose production is regulated under the protected geogrpahical indication (PGI) status. Unlike other cured hams in Italy, Sudtiroler Speck is manufactured by combining two different meat conservation methods - curing and smoking. Speck is an important ingredient in Sudtirol's cuisines, you will find it everywhere from breakfast to noodles and soups and oven-baked dishes. It also makes good gifts as they can be easily stored if unopened in its original vacuum packaging, and adds that extra creamy, savoury taste to your spaghetti carbonara.  

As for knödels, well, they are basically dumplings made with bread, potato, semolina, flour etc. and boiled or poached in water. Usually they serve as side dishes to meat main course but can also be eaten on its own.

I am not a fan of knödels - as they tend to be too filling, even fatty, for my taste - and certainly not someone  who goes to a Paulaner beer garden restaurant while on holidays (I don't even go there while not on holidays). But this is Bozen, and there are not that many places which are still open after 9pm, so I had to make do with Paulaner.

The blue-and-white tiles of the decor ensures a distinctive Bavarian touch to the whole place - Paulaner is from Bavaria and they make sure you are aware of it :)

Bozen/Bolzano: A Provincial Town with an Acute Identity Crisis

What comes to your mind when you combine pristine Alpine scenery with Teutonic efficiency and Italian flaire? Lush green valleys, vineyards in autumn colours, delicious local cuisine with smoked ham, tasty cream pies and cakes, tidy towns and villages yet with such irresistable, romantic charm?

Unfortunately, Sudtirol is not quite what I had expected it to be. Instead of a region which combines all the advantages of Teutonic efficiency and sweet Italian dolce vita, it turns out that Sudtirol has managed to accomplish quite the opposite and ended up with the worst of both worlds: Teutonic aloofness (sometimes almost bordering on rudeness) and Italian efficiency.

As soon as I stepped out of Bolzano's train station, I thought I had already crossed the border into Austria. The streets, the cathedral, the atmosphere, the way houses and things are built and organized in Bozen are all so teutonic, there is almost nothing Italian about the whole town, except for the street signs with Italian names and the occasional splattering of Italians spoken on the street.

The problem with Sudtirol is, they are suffering from some kind of acute identity crisis. They refuse to be seen as Italian - fair enough, since I can imagine ten thousand reasons of not being wanted to be seen as Italian as well - but they are neither German nor Austrian too. In spite of their efforts to crave out their own cultural identity over the past 90 years, the population and the villages still seem to be at a loss about who they really are.

Cafes of Turin: Some Places where Ordinary Folks have their Coffee and Lunch

The thing I love most about Turin is, the locals take their coffee seriously. And they do it in style too, with healthy salads, delicious pastas, fruit salads and other goodies on the side.

1. EXKI, Turin 
Around the corner of my hotel near some of Turin's most exclusive shopping areas, is a self-service cafe-restaurant which offers tasty food made of organic ingredients and good coffee made with Illy coffee beans.

Although Italy is well known for its gourment culture, the concept of organic farming and bio-food have only recently taken hold in the social consciousness of city-dwellers in Italy. Maybe that's because most Italians still eat relatively well - nutritious and healthy - compared to their Northern American counterparts, and the taste and variety of agricultural produces available in Italy's markets are still very 'local' in terms of origins, unlike some other industrialised countries in western Europe such as UK or the Netherlands, where a large proportion of fruits and vegetables are no longer home-grown; hence there is no such great urgency in Italy to convert to the religion of organic supremacy, or to promote organic foods by all means.

Value for Money in Turin: Follow the Students

As someone once told me: the best way in Italy to find a value-for-money place for great food at bargain prices is to follow the students. And I have been following this rule for years, so far it has almost always been proven right. In fact, this rule applies to many places all over the world, but that is another story ....

I simply have to recommend this nice little place in the centre of Turin, on the glamourous shopping boulevard of Via Po, near the university buildings. Given its location on one of Turin's busiest and most well-patronized throughfares, I would have expected the prices for a decent meal in this locality to be quite steep. But no, thanks to the presence of a sizeable student body attending lectures in university buildings nearby, many small cafes and restaurants are present which offer delicious buffet dinners at inexpensive prices. And they are really good value for money, even by my stringent standards (and I can be a very fussy customer, mind you).

The cafe with self-service dinner buffet is located at the long arcade that runs along both sides of Via Po. I was first attrcted to it thanks to the sign outside the entrance, which says 'A Drink and Buffet for 8 euros'.

Espressamente Illy, Turin: Illy Caffe in the Heartland of Lavazza

Italy's contribution to modern civilization comes in the form of its roasted coffee beans. Italian coffee beans are known throughout the world, and are the preferred beans of choice amongst coffee experts from Barcelona to Rio.There are dozens of coffee bean roasters in Italy, and each region has its own preference in terms of strength, aroma, and crema. For me, my favourite brand of roasted coffee beans is Illy Caffe, with its elegant aroma and nutty, caramel-like velvety texture and smooth, subtle aftertaste. 

In recent years, Illy has been busy setting up a series of modern and stylish concept coffee bar/bistros all over the world known as Espressamente Illy. I am a big fan of these Espressamente Illy bars, and have always made an effort to locate them wherever I go. The good thing I love about Espressamente Illy is, in addition to wonderful espresso and coffee at reasonable prices, they also have simple yet tasty bistro lunch, savoury hot snacks and pasta, as well as freshly prepared salads, desserts, pastry and cakes on offer.

Verona: Pretty City but Overrun by Tourists

The city of Verona is the prime example of how a provincial town of modest size, thanks to the good fortune of it being the main setting of a piece of well-written literary work, could attain global immortality and tap the enormous tourism earnings that come along with such free publicity. To put it in a less flattering way, Verona is living off its reputation as the hometown of Romeo and Juliet, and the city has probably one of the highest density of tourists per sqaure meter in the whole of Italy - probably on par with Rome, Venice and Florence. The warning signs are up when, no matter where you go, you hear English and Mandarin Chinese everywhere, and expensive non-Italian boutiques such as Louis Vuitton or Burberry are situated right next to the town's central landmark. 

Granted, Verona has a quite well-preserved medieval town centre, and the city has several sights worthy of a visit, even by European standards. But somehow I found the city, although pretty, lacks an authentic charm and the atmosphere is very a superficial one. At many places within the Old Town, it simply smells of gross commercialisation. Everywhere you go within the city centre, you see shops, restaurants, bars and establishments which are geared towards the tourist trade. You need to venture into the unmarked side streets in order to experience how locals go about with their daily chores in Verona, but even then, prices are steep for a provincial town and service not always friendly.
Somehow I was relieved that I did not opt to stay two nights in this town.
 

Piazza Bra is the main square near the Roman Arena of Verona. It is one of the places favoured by both locals and tourists alike, to see and to be seen. Countless bars and restaurants line the side of the square, menus are available in all major languages, and some of them remain open late. You can enjoy your meal or drinks al fresco and enjoy the sight of the Roman arena and the busy flow of tourist traffics on the square until late in the night.

Located at the end of Corsa Porta Nuova which links Verona's old town with the train station, Piazza Bra is also conveniently located near the main shopping districts of Verona, as well as the Opera House, the Tourist Information etc. 

The Many Harbours of Rhodes: A Simple Guide and Some Basic Orientations

There are several harbours in Rhodes Town: 

1. the Commercial Harbour (again divided into an International Arrivals Area and a Domestic Port)

2. the Mandraki Harbour

3. the Piraeus Port where normal passenger ferries operated by ANEK Lines, Bluestar Ferries, and Hellenic Seaways disembark. Do not confuse this harbour with the Domestic Port within the Commercial Harbour currently used by Dodecanses Seaways. This harbour is the furthest and most isolated of all harbours in Rhodes, located about 1km outside of the Old Town.

1) The Commercial Harbour: 

The Commercial Harbour of Rhodes is divided into two parts, the International Arrivals harbour, and the Domestic port. This paragraph deals with the International Arrivals areas of the Commercial Harbour. Passengers who arrive with catamaran, hydrofoil or normal car ferries from Turkey all disembark at this harbour. Passport control facilities are located in the white building with red curved roof in the centre of the photo. After disembarkation, passengers are required to proceed to international arrivals to have their passport stamped, after which they will pass through the customs and exit the Commercial Harbour areas through the main gate.

Shopping in Italy: Turin

For me, there is no other better place in Italy to squander money than in Turin. This city is meant for serious shopping. From international luxury boutiques (e.g. Hermes) to independent small retailers to family-owned leather shops, Turin offers excellent shopping opportunities for those who know what they want.

This being one of the most important cities in Italy, needless to say all the major players in Italy's fashion industry are present. On Piazza San Carlo and the adjacent Via Roma, as well as Via Giuseppe Luigi Lagrange parallel to Piazza San Carlo, one can find international boutiques and prestigeous names such as Hermes, Max Mara, Ferragamo, Mont Blanc, Louis Vuitton, Armani, Gucci, Prada, Chanel, Dior, etc., as well as many other Italian brands. The advantage of shopping in Turin is, being somewhat off-the-beaten-tourist-track, you can look around the shops at your own pace, nobody will try to hassel you, coerce you into buying something, or attempt some aggressive selling tactics on you. And you don't have to push you way around the boutiques amid masses of package-tour tourists from the US and Asia, nor fight your way through the shopfloors till you reach the cashiers. Unlike Florence or Venice, shops in Turin in general do not carry much tourist stuffs. Which is good as I am sick of seeing precious shop spaces in prime locations stocked up with cheap Made in China tourist souvenir and memorabilia. 

Turin: Heartland of Lavazza, Beautiful Cafes, and Slow Food Movement

Turin has been one of my favourite Italian cities, alongside Trieste. These two cities are with any doubt the coffee capitals of Italy. There are plenty of splendid coffee houses in Turin, and the city is proud of its culinary traditions.

Indeed, the capital of Piedmont and the former capital of the Kingdom of Savoy has lots of offer in terms of food and wine. The region of Piedmont is well known for many culinary products and alcoholic drinks, including the world famous Barbera d'Asti red wines, vermouth (essential ingredient for martini and a wide range of other cocktails), as well as white truffles. Although Italy do not grow its own coffee, Turin is the hometown of Lavazza, the Italian coffee giant which is a major player in the global speciality coffee market. And a city that takes its coffee seriously, their food cannot be too far off the mark either.

Grikos: Beach Holiday on Patmos

Those who are equating Greece with beach holidays might find themselves a little bit lost on Patmos, as the island is not geared towards such form of tourism at all. There are some beautiful coves with stunning sceneries for those who are looking for a nice spot in the shade and a bit of a swim in the Aegean, but in general beaches on Patmos are slightly on the lacking side. If you are attracted to rocky landscapes and scenic hidden coves, however, Patmos might be the right place for you.

Just a short drive outside of Skala, Grikos is a little settlement with a beautiful bay and a mini stretch of sandy beach. On a nice day, it is possible to walk all the way from Skala to Grikos; the scenic path alongside the winding road offers great views of the harbour of Skala and the Aegean Sea, plus the islets further ashore. Hence lots of photo opportunities for those who are travelling with their multiple cameras. The walk takes about 40 minutes to an hour, depending on your speed and the time you spend taking photos along the way.

Chora, Patmos: Peace and Serenity

The hilltop village of Chora on Patmos is a charming village with labyrinth-like narrow alleys, photogenic white houses, and an expansive view of the harbour of Skala and surrounding coves. Althouh Chora is the administrative centre of Patmos and home to Patmos' No.1 tourist attraction, few visitors actually stay overnight in the village. As soon as the Monastery is closed, the whole village became deserted and the narrow winding streets found themselves in a state of strange quietness.

When the sun is shining and the sky is blue, Chora is a pretty place to be. The village has some nice little squares dotted with family-run taverns that serve unpretentious local cuisines and light snacks. It is worth spending an hour or two strolling through the little streets of Chora, perhaps sit down at one of the modern little cafes and sample the sights and sound of this holistic little village.

Patmos: the Holy Island

Patmos is a beautiful Aegean island off the coast of Turkey. Although by all means worth a visit in its own right, nowadays the island of Patmos is primarily famous throughout the world because of one of its former residents - St. John the Apostle (St. John the Theologian), who was banished to the island in 95 A.D. from Ephesus and supposedly wrote the last book of the New Testament, the Book of Revelation, in a cave somewhere up the hill of this small rocky Aegean island. Because of this, Patmos is now home to an impressive hilltop monastery and a popular place of holy pilgrimage to Christians. Even secular tourists are drawn in hordes to Patmos in order to visit the holy grotto and the beautiful religious relics and art treasures housed in the museum of the Monastery of St. John the Theologian.

Picturesque Suburbs of Istanbul (Part 5): Bebek

Of all the suburbs on the European side of Istanbul, Bebek is probably my favourite. It is one of the most affluent seaside residential neighbourhoods in all of Istanbul, with beautiful tree-lined streets along the Bosphorus and pretty wooden houses, exclusive villas and modern penthouse apartment with balconies which offer splenid views of the Bosphorus Straits.   

Like all other exclusive leafy suburbs of Istanbul, Bebek is devoid of foreign tourists, but its marina is full of expensive yachts, while its elegant streets are a good place for some serious shopping for fashion-conscious visitors. 

The House Cafe, Bebek: Central European Flaire in the Middle of Istanbul

The House Cafe is a fairly well-known bistro-cafe chain in Istanbul. Aimed at the city's affluent middle-class consumers, the House Cafe has opened up shop in some of the most fashionable shopping malls (e.g. Istinye Park, Canyon Shopping Mall) and exclusive residential districts of Istanbul (Bebek, Etiler, Sisli). 

Prices are not cheap, almost on par with major cities in western Europe, but when compared to similar establishments in other parts of Istanbul or major coastal resort towns such as Antalya, the House Cafe actually offers quite decent fares at comparatively reasonable prices.

One of my favourite House Cafe venues is the one in Bebek, a petite yet elegant leafy suburb of Istanbul. The decor reminds me of those stately fin-de-siecle Kaffeehaeuser in Central Europe, notably Vienna.

Picturesque Suburbs of Istanbul (Part 4): Istinye

The neighbourhood of Istinye is not very well-known amongst foreign visitors, but locals flock to the little waterside village, about 40 minutes by car on the European side of the Bosphorus, for its restaurants and views.

Picturesque Suburbs of Istanbul (Part 3): Rumeli

Most people know about the famous Rumeli Hisari (Rumeli Castle) on the European shore of the Bosphorus, but few have bothered to spend more than just an hour in this scenic little quarter and enjoy the pleasant atmosphere of its traditional waterfront tea gardens and European-style roadside cafes.

Just like in the neighbouring suburb of Arnavutköy, there are also many beautiful Ottman wooden mansions in Rumeli. Rents in this part of Istanbul are certainly not cheap, but the elegant apartments and houses which dotted the hills and slopes overlooking the Bosphorus are among some of the most sought-after real estates in the country.

Picturesque Suburbs of Istanbul (Part 2): Arnavutköy

Arnavutköy, 'Albanian Village' in Turkish, is a small suburb in the European shore of Istanbul, famous for its colourful wooden houses that lined the waterfront of the Bosphorus.

Before the great fire of 1877, Arnavutköy was predominantly inhabited by Jews, followed by ethnic Greeks and Muslims. Nowadays Arnavutköy is a chic district with many up-market fish restaurants and bars frequented by affluent Istanbulites.

Along the open marina that lined the waterfront promenade, one could spend a leisurely afternoon strolling along the Bosphorus and admire the beautiful sceneries along the way.

Picturesque suburbs of Istanbul (Part 1): Beşiktaş

It is a pity that most of the foreign visitors to Istanbul choose to stay within the tourist ghettos in and around Sultanahmet; as a result of which, few of them have actually managed to venture outside of the  Holy Golden Tourist Triangle of  Sultanahmet - Taksim - Eminonu. Being a city that straddles both Europe and Asia and surrounded by water on almost all sides, the city of Istanbul has so much more to offer  in terms of tourist attractions than just oriental bazaars, Ottoman mosques and museums. Both on the European and the Asian shores are plenty of beautiful leafy suburbs, full of tree-lined streets, picturesque marinas with lighthouses, waterfront promenade, 19th century European-style villas, mansions, and grand public buildings, which remain relatively unknown to foreign visitors. Be it Kadikoy and Fenerbahce on the Anatolian side, or Istinye and Bebek on the European side, these marvellous little neighbourhoods of Istanbul, with its diverse architectural, cultural and historical heritage and offering postcard-perfect views of the Bosphorus, are worth at least one full days' visit.  Virtually all of them are easily accessible by bus or boat from downtown Istanbul.