Shopping in Istanbul: Beyond the Usual Tourist Haunts

This is not about shopping in the Grand Bazaar or in the Sultanahmet areas, but a discussion of some of the up-market shopping areas in Istanbul where fashionistas of both sexes can torture their credit cards to their hearts' desire and don themselves with the latest fashion from Milan, Paris and New York. Welcome to High-End Shopping in Istanbul!!

Asmali Konak Otel, Safranbolu

Normally I do not recommend specific hotels in my personal blog, unless I found them to be unique or is good value for money. Asmali Konak, a small family-run hotel in the old town of Safranbolu, fits into the 'good value for money' category.

Located at the centre of Safranbolu's Old Town, near the town square and the Cinci Haman turkish bath complex, Asmali Konak is a restored old Ottoman house with a spacious garden. When the weather is warm enough, traditional turkish breakfast is served in the garden.

Safranbolu: Asian Tourists' Favourite UNESCO World Heritage Site in Turkey

Every nationality has its own favourite place to visit in Turkey. For the Germans, it is the region between Antalya and Alanya. The British prefer the stretch of coast between Fethiye and Altinkum. For tourists from East Asia, it seems no tour of Turkey is complete without a visit to Safranbolu, a small mountain village tucked away in a lush green valley.

The town of Safranbolu consists of two different parts: the New Town (called Kirankoy), and the Old Town (Safranbolu itself). Kirankoy is the town's administrative centre, with modern buildings and apartments blocks built on top of a small hill overlooking the valley of Safranbolu. Long distance buses stop at the bus station outside Kirankoy's town centre, and passengers continuing towards Safranbolu's Old Town will have to transfer to the free mini-shuttle provided by each bus company and get off at the bus company's town office in Kirankoy, before getting on a blue city bus which connects Kirankoy with the Old Town of Safranbolu.

Lefkosa/Nicosia: A Divided City and the Last Green Line in the World

Lefkosa is the capital of a divided Cyprus. The Green Line patrolled by the UN serves as the de facto border between Northern and Southern Cyprus, and this line runs through the centre of Lefkosa and virtually cuts the city into two separate ethnic enclaves.

The view of the giant flag of the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus carved onto a hillside for all to see. In the night, the flag is lighted with thousands of light bulbs twinkling non-stop in the darkness.

Kyrenia/Girne: the No.1 Tourist Attraction of Northern Cyprus

Kyrenia (Girne in Turkish) is the most picturesque town in Northern Cyprus, as well as its most popular tourist attraction. The view of Kyrenia's scenic harbour appears on virtually all the tourism publications about Northern Cyprus, and for years European holidaymakers (especially the English) have been flocking to the hotels and resorts gracing the fine sandy beaches near Kyrenia in spite of the international economic embargo imposed upon the Northern Cyprus administration by the UN since the early 1980s. Previouly a predominantly Greek-Cypriot town, the majority of inhabitants in today's Kyrenia are Turkish-Cypriots and settlers from Turkey.

An Endangered Medieval City: Famagusta/Gazimagusa, Northern Cyprus

Famagusta (Gazimagusa in Turkish), a beautiful medieval town in Northern Cyprus, is probably among the biggest losers of the long-drawn-out political saga otherwise known as the Cyprus  conflict. This serene historical town, with  a pretty medieval centre and a natural  deep-water harbour, used to be an A-List holiday paradise in the 1960s and early 1970s, with some of the regions' most luxurious hotels and bars frequented by big-name Hollywood stars, as well as the rich and the famous from nearby Lebanon, the Levant and other countries in Europe.

 The heydays of Famagusta as one of the top tourist resorts in the whole of the Mediterraean was put to an abrupt stop in 1974. In the aftermath of Turkey's military intervention in Northern Cyprus, the entire district of Varosha - the tourist quarter of Famagusta - was sealed off by the Turkish army and has since remained closed to this day. No entry into Varosha is allowed except for UN and Turkish army personnels. Although the Turkish-Cypriot government had agreed to hand over Varosha to Greek-Cypriot control under the Cyprus peace agreement mediated by former UN secretary general Kofi Annan, the fact that this peace agreement was rejected by the Greek-Cypriots means that Varosha remains a closed ghost-town in the foreseeable future.

The Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus: the Forgotten Country

Tucked away in the eastern Mediterranean Sea, the island of Cyprus has been a place fought over and over by various regional powers ever since the times of the Crusaders. In contemporary world, the power struggles between Christians and Muslims takes on a different twist, with a dose of ethnic-nationalism thrown into the fray.
Since the division of the island in 1974 into two separate administrative zones following the failed coup by Greek military junta and the subsequent military occupation of the northern part of the island by Turkey's armed forces, Northern Cyprus ( since 1983 the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus) has become a state that virtually disappeared off the political map of the world. To 99% of the international community, the country known as TRNC never exists, as the only country that recognizes Northern Cyprus as an independent country is Turkey. As a result of the international trade embargo and political sanctions imposed by the United Nations against Northern Cyprus in the aftermath of Turkish Cypriots' unilateral declaration of independence in 1983, the economy of Northern Cyprus becomes totally reliant upon Turkey for survival.

Mardin: Honey-Coloured City in a Mystical Land

Being a historian by training, the very name of Mesopotamia immediately invokes the mythical image of the 'fertile crescent', where human civilisations first flourished amid the green lands between the two Rivers of the Paradise - the Tigris and the Euphrates - that flow out of the Garden of Eden.

In reality, this vast stretch of land between the two great rivers is no paradise on earth, but a troubled zone plagued by cross-border sectarian conflicts, political instability, and chronic economic under-development.

Tucked away in the southeastern corner of Turkey's border with Iraq and Syria, both the town and the province of Mardin suffers long periods of neglect and under-investment until recently, when the ceasefire between the PKK and the Turkish armed forces, in conjunction with the arrival of state investments aimed at improving the region's infrastructures, gave Mardin a new lease of life. Unlike some of the better known ancient towns in Turkish Mesopotamia, tourism was not a mainstay in Mardin's economic life until the last few years, when the sudden rise of Mardin to touristic stardom as one of the 'must-see' places in Turkey saw a rapid rise in the number of tourists visiting the town. Nowadays there are several high-end boutique hotels in Mardin and nearby towns, offering good-quality accommodation to affluent visitors from Turkey and abroad.

Hasankeyf: 10,000 Years of History soon-to-be-lost

Although I already read about the controversial Ilisu Dam irrigation project before I actually visited Hasankeyf, once I had seen this place with my own eyes, however, it made quite an impact on me that I felt compelled to write something about this place, whose very existence has come under threat due to the construction of the dam project.

Hasankeyf, a Kurdish village in the predominantly Kurdish province of Batman in Southeastern Turkey, is a unique place, even for a country like Turkey, where ancient sites and towns with centuries of history are commonplace all over the country. One of the oldest continuously inhabited settlements in the world, this small village, situated above the limestone cliffs overlooking the canyon of the River Tigris, is like a living open-air museum, with a history dating back almost 10,000 years, spanning some 20 different cultures. Relics of several major ancient and medieval civilizations can be found in and around Hasakeyf - Romans, Byzantines, Artukids (Artuklu in Turkish), Ayyubids, Ottomans -  all left their marks on this medieval village.

Beautiful Cafe in Trieste: Caffe Tommaseo et al.

Trieste is the home town of illy caffe, one of the premium coffee beans brands and my personal favourite. Being the birthplace of the world's best espresso beans, Trieste has an abundance of good cafes, ranging from the traditional elegant Viennese-style coffee houses (Caffe Tommaseo, Caffe San Marco, Caffe degli Speechi, Caffe Stella Polare etc.), to the ultra chic and stylish modern cafes (How about Espressamente illy, the funky coffee joint operated by illy caffe itself?).

A stroll through Trieste's compact city centre will bring you past some of the most authentic coffee houses in Europe. Cafes in Trieste are not quite like those in other Italian cities: they are not just a place to have a cup of cappucino or espresso whilst on your way to work, but an institution of ritual and tradition.

Urfa: Abraham, the Holy City, and the (Holy) Fish Lake

With thousands of years' history, the town of Sanliurfa (or Urfa in local usage) is a must-visit place for those who are interested in biblical sites, archaeology and ancient history.

Located close to the Syrian border, Urfa is a Kurdish town with a predominantly pro-AKP (Justice and Development Part, the current ruling party of Turkey) populace. In spite of their ethicity, many locals openly display their disdain of PKK and their dislike of Diyarbakir (the hotbed of Kurdish independence politics).

Midyat: Ancient Town, Friendly Folks, and Beautiful 'Sila'

Midyat, about 40 minutes away from Mardin, is a pretty town with many beautiful traditional rose -colour sandstone mansions surrounded by high walls (known as 'Konagi' in Turkish). The history of the town dates back thousands of years and is a melting pot of various cultures, religious and ethnic groups.

Like all border regions in the world, the population of Midyat, as well as those of the towns and villages close by, has a very mixed population that live alongside one another in a somewhat contrived state of peace. For thousands of years, Arabs, Kurds, Turks and Syriac Christians (as well as Armenian Christians until they were driven out of the country in the early 20th century) are all parts of the social landscape. The region around Midyat also has one of the highest concentration of Syriac-Christian monasteries, some of which are still in use today.

Trieste: the Hidden Gem of the Adriatic

There is something special about Trieste, the polyglot city tucked away in the north-easternmost corner of Italy's Adriatic coast.

I first came across the name many years ago, while reading a biography of James Joyce, who spent more than a decade in this pretty port city teaching English. The very name of Trieste invokes a certain mystique, a sense of nostalgy, and it immediately set my imagination alight: the name seemed to personify some long-lost grandeur, sadness, and a misplaced sense of identity and loyalty.

Going to Mardin - Part 1: Hotel Kervansarayi

The ancient Mesopotamian town of Mardin is the first town I visited in Turkey's Southeast. Now you might want to ask: of all the beautiful towns and cities in southeastern Turkey, why Mardin?

The answer is simple: because of the exemplary architectures I once saw in 'Sila', a Turkish soap opera starring the handsome ex-model Mehmet Akif Alakurt and Cansu Dere, a former Miss Turkey second-runners up. The whole series was filmed in the old town of Mardin and nearby towns such as Midyat and Hasankeyf. At first I started following the series out of curiosity-thanks in no small part to the dark, good looks of the romantic, kind-hearted male lead known as Boran Aga (protrayed by Mr. Akif Alakurt). But soon after, something more fascinating caught my attention: the medieval sandstone mansions and buildings featured in the series, which would turn into an enchanting shade of fiery, mysterious brownish red in the evening sun.

Alacati: Turkish Town with a Blue-and-White Ambience

Alacati is a picturesque little village just 20 minutes by mini-bus from Cesme. It is famous for its well-preserved town centre, with lots of blue-and-white Greek stone houses and buildings.

Like so many other towns on the Turkish Aegean coast, the majority of inhabitants in Alacati used to be ethnic Greeks in the Ottoman Empire. Hence the distinctively Greek flaire of the town. In the aftermath of the population exchange of 1923 between Greece and Turkey, most of Alacati's Greek population left Turkey and moved across the Aegean to Greece. Fortunately, the architectures of the town had not been torn down by the new inhabitants, (which was the case of many other formerly Greek towns in the western half of Turkey), but are converted into luxurious boutique hotels, beautiful inns with spacious courtyards, delightful outdoor cafes and restaurants.

Madalena: Small Harbour Town on Pico

To be honest, Madalena on the island of Pico gives one the feeling that it is just a point of transit; most people simply consider it a place of arrival/departure. As a result, the whole town has a somewhat 'irrelevant' feel to it. Apart from the harbour (to catch a ferry to other Azorean islands), a few cafes and shops in the town's main streets, there is almost nothing which calls for serious attention.

Basically there is nothing much to do in this town, except for getting off and on the ferries. There are a few cafes where you can spend your time looking at the sea while waiting for the ferries, but that's it actually. It is a bit boring a place to visit, even for a short day-trip. You certainly need a car if you want to explore the beauty of the Pico island.

Passengers waiting on the pier of Madalena's harbour to board the ferry to Horta.

Horta: Small Town with a Long History

Horta is named after Joss van Hurtere, a Flemish nobleman who founded a small settlement on Faial and which later came to be known after the transliteration of his name. The town is actually much prettier than I thought, and its surroundings and public infrastructure certainly are kept in a much better state than many of the towns on Mainland Portugal.The town is set amidst picturesque settings: with green hills in the background, blue oceans and the impressive sight of the volcano of Pico rising high up above the horizon into the clouds.

There are just a few main streets in downtown Horta, this Rua Vasco da Gama, running parallel along the Marina, is one of them. Both TAP Portugal and SATA have their office on this road.

Horta's Tourist Information Office in located right next to the Marina, on a shady square right next to the posh Pousada de Santa Cruz.

Beaches of Faial, Part 1: Faja

There are not too many guidebooks about the Azores. Of the few that are still in print, some of them offer somewhat misleading information concerning the availability of beaches suitable for families with children. One of them stated that the Azores are not suitable for swimming due to the lack of sandy beaches.

Which, in my opinion, is not quite a correct statement. If your concept of sandy beaches comes directly from postcard impressions of long, white soft sandy beaches of the Caribbeans, then beaches of the Azores are not for you. There are plenty of secluded coves and sandy beaches here in the Azores, but they are not of soft, white sand, but coarse, black volcanic sand beaches.

Yet these black volcanic sand beaches have a unique beauty of their own:

Faja is a very secluded beach located at the western tip of Faial. There are no public transports to this beach, so you need a car or a taxi to get there.

Powerful waves lashed against black volcanic rocks and stone walls.

Beaches of Faial, Part 2: Praia de Almoxarife

Praia de Almoxarife is just a short drive away from Horta. There are also 2-3 buses per day from Horta to Almoxarife (except for the weekends). It is a well-equipped beach, with showers, toilets, life guards, a small library on the beach and several restaurants nearby. To our surprise, the beach of Almoxarife is a certified blue-flag beach!! (There are several blue-flag beaches on the island of Faial, by the way)


The view of the pretty little town of Almoxarife and its blue-flagged black sand beach from the top of the drive down the hill towards the ocean.

Free Shuttle Service Offered By Turkey's Atlasjet

In 2008, Atlasjet began offering free shuttle service for passengers booked on Atlasjet Antalya - Istanbul - Antalya flights . The courtesy bus leaves to/from Antalya airport from selected departure points in Alanya, Serik (near the Side junction), Manavgat and it has been a resounding success. Previously, passengers travelling from outside Antalya to Antalya Airport had to get off the intercity bus about 2km outside the airport terminal buildings, and take a taxi from there to reach the airport complex.

Now, in addition to Antalya (to Alanya, Serik, Manvagat), Atlasjet has extended their free shuttle service to Atlatsjet flights to/from another 3 cities:

1. Adana Airport - Mersin/Tarsus (and vice versa)

2. Free shuttle to Kusadasi/Selcuk from Izmir airport (and vice versa): this is especially useful for travellers who fly in from Istanbul to Izmir for the purpose of visiting the ruins of Ephesus and/or the beach resort of Kusadasi. Previously travellers had to pay a hefty 80 euro for the airport transfer between Izmir airport and Selcuk/Kusadasi, or have to drag their bags to Izmir's Central Bus station and change on a mini-bus to Selcuk. Now it is available for free if you fly with Atlasjet.