Alacati is a picturesque little village just 20 minutes by mini-bus from Cesme. It is famous for its well-preserved town centre, with lots of blue-and-white Greek stone houses and buildings.
Like so many other towns on the Turkish Aegean coast, the majority of inhabitants in Alacati used to be ethnic Greeks in the Ottoman Empire. Hence the distinctively Greek flaire of the town. In the aftermath of the population exchange of 1923 between Greece and Turkey, most of Alacati's Greek population left Turkey and moved across the Aegean to Greece. Fortunately, the architectures of the town had not been torn down by the new inhabitants, (which was the case of many other formerly Greek towns in the western half of Turkey), but are converted into luxurious boutique hotels, beautiful inns with spacious courtyards, delightful outdoor cafes and restaurants.
Like so many other towns on the Turkish Aegean coast, the majority of inhabitants in Alacati used to be ethnic Greeks in the Ottoman Empire. Hence the distinctively Greek flaire of the town. In the aftermath of the population exchange of 1923 between Greece and Turkey, most of Alacati's Greek population left Turkey and moved across the Aegean to Greece. Fortunately, the architectures of the town had not been torn down by the new inhabitants, (which was the case of many other formerly Greek towns in the western half of Turkey), but are converted into luxurious boutique hotels, beautiful inns with spacious courtyards, delightful outdoor cafes and restaurants.
Today's Alacati is a fashionable resort town popular among affluent Turks from Istanbul , Izmir and Ankara, who come to the quaint little village to spend an enjoyable weekend strolling around the myriad of cobble-stone alleys dotted with white-washed traditional houses. Prices in Alacati are on par with other famous names such as Nisantasi or Bodrum, if not already more expensive. A cup of illy coffee at a local cafe in Alacati will set you back at 10TL (5 euro) a piece, while a simple pasta dish at one of the outdoor restaurants will cost more than 20TL.
In spite of such high price levels, the streets and alleys of Alacati are still besieged by well-heeded Istanbulites on weekends throughout the year. To cater for the town's sophisticated clientle, numerous well-appointed inns and hotels, each with its own unique design concepts and characteristics, sprung up all over Alacati, offering comfortable accommodation in elegant Greek mansions with private gardens. In the summer, breakfast are served under grape vines on shady terrace or in secluded courtyards.
In spite of such high price levels, the streets and alleys of Alacati are still besieged by well-heeded Istanbulites on weekends throughout the year. To cater for the town's sophisticated clientle, numerous well-appointed inns and hotels, each with its own unique design concepts and characteristics, sprung up all over Alacati, offering comfortable accommodation in elegant Greek mansions with private gardens. In the summer, breakfast are served under grape vines on shady terrace or in secluded courtyards.
An essential part of Alacati's charm lies in its array of colourful facades and an abundance of historical houses. It is a pity, however, that the town has become increasingly touristy in recent years, and it runs the risk of turning into a replica of some picture-perfect villages on Mykonos or Santorini. This process of commercialisation is especially evident in the old town centre, where streets and squares big and small are saturated with trendy Santorini-look-alike blue-and-white bars and cafes. There are very few rustic Turkish tea houses serving authentic Turkish tea.
On the other hand, such similarity to Greece is understandable, given Alacati's historical linkage to Greece, as well as her geographical promixity to Chios, the northern Greek Aegean island famous for the mastic plants. Although no mastic trees are grown in the fields around Alacati, mastic products are nevertheless sold all over the place; every souvenir shop in town sells drinks and sweets flavoured with mastic.
On a sunny afternoon, tourists and locals alike sit outside for hours, sipping their Italian coffee at one of the tastefully decorated outdoor cafes, playing board games, or just hang around, doing nothing.For those looking for a more Turkish experience, one has to venture into smaller side streets, where home-made Turkish pancakes (Gozleme) are served under vine canopy alongside cups of steaming-hot Turkish teas. Elderly locals cluster together in the corner, reading or gossiping with one another. The less-touristy parts of Alacati , where local residents live, shop and dine, have retained a more rustic, down-to-earth touch. Those who live in Alacati are long used to the curious gaze of tourists - they go about minding their own daily business, even when I was busy taking photos of them and their houses with my camera.
How to reach Alacati: From Izmir Otogar, there are frequent buses operated by Cesme Tur to Alacati. Buses depart from the upper storey of Izmir's Otogar, right next to where the mini-van to Selcuk (Ephesus) arrives/departs. One way price per person is about 12 TL (September 2009). The Izmir- Cesme bus will stop at Alacati on the way to Cesme, about 150m outside Alacati's old town, on the main road just outside Alacati's municipality buildings. Buses from Izmir will continue onto Cesme after dropping off passengers at Alacati.Between Alacati and Cesme, frequent mini-buses (dolmus) operate throughout the day.
Copyrights 2010. All photos and text by YC Cheng. All Rights Reserved.
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