First-time visitors to Istanbul often choose to stay in the tourist enclaves of Sultanahmet and Sirkeci, or the trendy shopping districts of Taksim and Besiktas, as these areas are packed with famous sights and are full of accommodations catering to all kinds of clientele. Only those who are relatively familiar with this huge metropole would consider to stay overnight on the Asian side of the Bosphorus. Due to the popularity of Sabiha Gokcen airport as a hub for international budget carriers flying from Europe to Istanbul, Kadikoy is now becoming an increasingly trendy place for travellers to stay at during their time in Istanbul.
Actually, Kadikoy is a very interesting district and is certainly worth a visit in its own right. Its streets are lined with beautiful nineteenth century wooden bunglows, graceful grand mansions with hidden courtyards and gardens, while in the side lanes one will find plenty of chic, fashionable cafes, wine bars (known as meyhane in Turkish) and al fresco restaurants specialising in fish dishes and high-end Turkish cuisines. The elegant art deco building of the Süreyya Operası (pictured above), built in 1924, acts as the centre of Kadikoy's cultural scene.
Although the sight of foreign tourists is still (comparatively speaking) a novelty in Kadikoy, one would be mistaken to think that it is a cheap price for food, drinks and accommodation. As a matter of fact, prices in Kadikoy do not come cheap. Meals in a high-end restaurant in Moda, a fashionable business and residential area of Kadikoy, can cost you a whopping 70 euros or more per person without drinks. And Kadikoy is home to some of the most expensive accommodations in the whole of Istanbul - in certain cases on par with luxury hotels in Taksim and Besiktas. Therefore, bargain hunters and those travelling on a shoestring should just avoid this district altogether and head back to the overwhelmingly touristic ghetto of Sultanahmet.
This is not to say that everything in Kadikoy is expensive. For sure there are also plenty of affordable little places to wine and dine, but just do not expect to pay 10 euro or less for a decent dinner at one of the al fresco dining fish restaurants in trendy corners of Moda.
Just like the rest of Istanbul, Kadikoy has been an ethnic and religious mix-pot since the Ottoman times. Located at the side of a busy square in the centre of downtown Moda is an Armenian church still in service.
Kadikoy is famous for it lively night life, especially on weekends. One of the trademarks of a nice night out with friends in Kadikoy is to have dinner at one of the fish and seafood restaurants on the streets, followed by some live music and a few drinks at a local street bar or a traditional turkish wine bar. On weekends it is advisable to book in advance, as popular places fill up fairly quickly (especially for those who prefer outdoor seatings) and one has to wait for quite some time for a table if you arrive without reservations.
Compared to the tourist-oriented districts of Sultanahmet or Sirkeci, the busy roadside dining scene of Kadikoy is - relatively speaking - virtually free of foreign tourists. Although this relative absence of tourism does not translate into cheaper prices, nevertheless it is still an interesting experience to venture around the streets and try out different places surrounded by friendly locals amid a lively and carefree ambience. In contrast to the slightly rigid high-end elegance of shore front restaurants in Bebek and Arnavutkoy along the European side of the Bosphorus, the atmosphere in downtown Kadikoy is like an open-air carnival, full of joie de vivre.
The seaside promenade along the Bosphorus is always full of people, no matter day or night, and the highly charged energy of this whole place always makes me feel as if everything is constantly on the move. The funny thing is, although constant, perpetual motion seems to be the theme of life in Kadikoy, the atmosphere is by no means a hurried, pressurized one. In spite of finding myelf surrounded by streams of people, never in a second did I feel suffocated or ill at ease. In contrast, I found it quite an entertaining experience watching commuters rushing on and off the ferries crossing the Bosphrous, while cars and buses jamming up the roads and streets. which run alongside the seafront. Amid this scene of seemingly endless urban chaos are the residents of Kadikoy, both young and old, who leisurely stroll up and down the waterfront, enjoying the open view of the Bosphorus with the towers and minarets of European Istanbul in the background, turning the entire seafront into a big public park.
Indeed, when the weather is nice, what could possibly be more pleasant than to spend a few leisurely moments drinking freshly brewed Turkish tea at an outdoor tea garden facing the Bosphorus? Unless you have been to Kadikoy, one cannot possibly say one has 'seen' Istanbul.
Copyrights@2011. All text and photos by YC Cheng. All Rights Reserved.
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