Of all the historic regions of Germany, the district traditionally known as Kaiserstuhl, a beautiful wine-growing valley tucked away between the east bank of the River Rhine and the western fringe of the Black Forest, is considered by many food critics as the culinary capital of Germany.
In this part of Germany, food and wine are taken very seriously, and people in general pay far more attention to the quality and taste of their food, as well as how and where foodstuff are produced and farmed. Organic farming is not a new concept in this part of Germany at all; when I was a student at the University of Freiburg throughout the 1990s, the local population was already very much into 'Bio-produkte' - namely foodstuffs produced by organic farming methods. Anything that has been certified by relevant authorities to be a genuine produce of an organic farm in Germany can fetch a far better price than products produced on a conventional basis.
When it comes to local specialities, the first thing that comes to mind is the well-known Black Forest Ham (Schwarzwälder Schinken), which is a smoked ham produced in the Black Forest region of southern Germany. The ham was first salted and seasoned with various spices, then left to cure for several weeks before being cold smoked in room temperature with the smoke created by burning a mixture of fir and sawdust, a process which lends the ham its beautiful deep red colour and its smoky flavour.
Just like in Italy, Black Forest ham can be eaten together with bread as toppings, used as part of the sandwich fillings, or with fresh fruits such as melon.
Another local speciality is Lamb's Lettuce (Feldsalat), which is a seasonal produce in this part of Europe. During the autumn months, locally grown feldsalat are a popular item on the menus of restaurants and cafes all over Baden. This wonderful salat can be served with a pumpkin seed oil-based dressings laced with diced fried Black Forest speck and freshly grounded black pepper, a delightful and nutritious dish fit for a cold autumn evening.
In autumn, the season of Feldsalat coincides with the opening months of local Straußwirtschaft, a kind of informal seasonal restaurants set up by wine growers in German-speaking countries on their own wine estates to promote and market their wines directly to the consumers. The opening months of the Straußwirtschaft are regulated by relevant authorities and are usually between March and June in the spring, as well as between September and November in the autumn. In autumn, the timing of the Straußwirtschaft is co-ordinated in conjunction with the release of the new wine harvest. For those living in southern Baden, one of the most popular local weekend activites during autumn is to visit a Straußwirtschaft in the picturesque Black Forest countryside, recognisable by a broomstick hanging out on top of the signage at the entrance to the respective wine farms. And it is not just wines that are being served at such Straußwirtschaft. Each Straußi has its own menus of regional dishes using ingredients sourced from surrounding locality. Some of the most popular Straußi dishes served in southern Baden include regional specialities of Alsace and Baden, such as Wurstsalat, Bratwurst, potato salads, Zwiebelkuchen (Tarte à l'oignon), and Flammkuchen (Tarte flambée). There is nothing better than a piece of crispy Flammkuchen downed with some crisp white wines.
In autumn, the season of Feldsalat coincides with the opening months of local Straußwirtschaft, a kind of informal seasonal restaurants set up by wine growers in German-speaking countries on their own wine estates to promote and market their wines directly to the consumers. The opening months of the Straußwirtschaft are regulated by relevant authorities and are usually between March and June in the spring, as well as between September and November in the autumn. In autumn, the timing of the Straußwirtschaft is co-ordinated in conjunction with the release of the new wine harvest. For those living in southern Baden, one of the most popular local weekend activites during autumn is to visit a Straußwirtschaft in the picturesque Black Forest countryside, recognisable by a broomstick hanging out on top of the signage at the entrance to the respective wine farms. And it is not just wines that are being served at such Straußwirtschaft. Each Straußi has its own menus of regional dishes using ingredients sourced from surrounding locality. Some of the most popular Straußi dishes served in southern Baden include regional specialities of Alsace and Baden, such as Wurstsalat, Bratwurst, potato salads, Zwiebelkuchen (Tarte à l'oignon), and Flammkuchen (Tarte flambée). There is nothing better than a piece of crispy Flammkuchen downed with some crisp white wines.
Due to the geographical proximity of Baden and Alsace, both regions share a common culinary root and a great deal of similarity when it comes to food and drinks. In Baden, people are more accustomed to drinking wine than the rest of Germany, while a lot of the tradtional regional cuisines of Baden are a close variation of the famous Alsatian culinary style. That is why Flammkuchen is also a highly popular regional speciality on the right-bank of the Rhine. Virtually every cafe and bistro frequented by students in the university town of Freiburg serves tasty home-made Flammkuchen at affordable prices. Don't miss the chance to try it out when you are in this part of southern Germany!!
Copyrights@2012. All text and photos by YC Cheng. All Rights Reserved.
Copyrights@2012. All text and photos by YC Cheng. All Rights Reserved.
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