Unless you have local friends, usually the circumference of non-Turkish visitors to Izmir are limited to the southern half of the Gulf of Izmir only: namely the areas surrounding Konak Square, Alsancak, Basmane Station and the Izmir Expo and Trade Fairs ground. Few visitors venture northwards across the Gulf of Izmir to Mavisehir, Bostanci and Karşıyaka, although these neighbourhoods have a lot of interesting shops and good restaurants, where you can experience the authentic atmosphere of this beautiful coastal city first-hand and gain some personal insights into the lifestyle of upper middle-class Izmir.
Being an upper middle-class neighbourhood in Izmir, the promenade of Karşıyaka has no shortage of high-rise apartment buildings, each with its own seaview balcony or terrace, and equipped with sun decks or detachable window shutters to shield out the hot, burning sun in the summer months while keeping out the elements in the winter. Along the shore are spacious public parks with sports facilities, bicycle paths, playgrounds for children, and teahouses and restaurants for the adults.
Regular ferries operated by the city of Izmir shuttle between both sides of the Gulf of Izmir, connecting Karşıyaka and Bostanci on the north with Konak, Alsancak and Pasaport on the southern side throughout the day. It is a must-do for any visitors to Izmir to take a ride on one of the ferries that cross the Gulf, as the journey offers spectacular views of Izmir's coastlines and the city centre. The scenery is even more impressive in the night, when the whole city is lighted up and sparkles under the smooth, silky night sky. The view of Izmir's south shore from Karşıyaka is on par with other famous night views of cities in Asia.
The public transport systems in Izmir comprise of buses, ferries, metro, and suburban railway system. For those who travel often with public transport, it is advisable to purchase a rechargeable Kentkart, the electronic ticket card valid for all modes of public transport in Izmir. It is transferable and users can recharge their card at ticket machines located at metro stations, the entrance of suburban railways, as well as all ferry piers.
The centre of Karşıyaka is full of shops and restaurants frequented by locals. Due to the absence of hotel accommodation in this part of Izmir however, virtually no tourists turn up here. A few months ago, when some friends came over to Izmir for a short stay, I tried in vain to find a hotel in this part of the city. In the end we had to house them in a hotel in Alsancak and keep alert that we did not miss the last ferry from Karşıyaka to Alsancak shortly before midnight.
In the evenings, the seaside promenade and public parks of Karşıyaka is a popular place for local residents to wine and dine and admire the beautiful night views of Izmir's southern shore. Prices for restaurants in Karşıyaka are not too expensive, even by Izmir standards, and unlike parts of downtown Izmir where restaurants and shops close fairly early, in Karşıyaka shops and restaurants are open virtually until the early hours in the morning, making it a great place for a night out with family and friends. Personally I like Karşıyaka a lot, as it makes you experience how life is like in everyday Izmir and has plenty of fresh air, nice views and interesting little shops for me to explore.
By the way, in Turkey the Ministry of Education has a Teacher's House (Öğrenme evi) in virtually all cities, towns and even some villages to provide reasonably-priced accommoations to teachers and students in Turkey who would like to travel around the country but cannot afford to pay too much for the hotel accommodations. The Teacher's House in Izmir and in Foca, a beautiful seaside town north of Izmir, are both located at prime locations near the seaside with wonderful views and a busy cafeteria selling inexpensive refreshments and snacks. The Teacher's House in Izmir is very conveniently located just opposite the Karşıyaka Ferry Terminal, close to shops, restaurants, suburban railway lines, muncipal bus stops, and the ticket office of major inter-city bus companies. It is worthwhile trying out this place if you hold the appropriate credentials.
Copyrights@2011. All text and photos by YC Cheng. All Rights Reserved.
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