Kars is very much a border town, and it certainly feels like it has been in the wilderness for a long time. Strategically located at the far-eastern end of Turkey's vast territory, Kars is virtual gate of entry into the mountainous terrain of Central Asia and the Caucasus. Its strategic importance means Kars was a place repeatedly fought over by the great powers - most notably the ambitious Russian Empire and its successor state, the Soviet Unions. In the 19th and the 20th centuries, several military campaigns were waged by the Russians against the ailing Ottoman Empire, as a result of which Kars and its surrounding region (including Ardahan) were occupied/annexed by the Russians on several occasions.
After several changes of political ownership between Russia/the Soviet Union on the one hand and the Ottoman Empire/Republic of Turkey on the other, the political status of Kars and the neighbouring provinces of Ardahan and Igdir were finalised in the Treaty of Kars in 1921 between the Soviet Union and Turkey, when both sides agreed that these three provinces would remain part of the Turkish Republic.
So much for its disputed history, Kars does look and feel very much a Russian town. When I visited the town in early autumn, the air was already very cold, and it was thick with the smell of burning coal. This smell of coal for heating and hot-water purposes remind me of those grey border towns in the former Eastern Bloc countries, and Kars looks very much like them. The same grey, monotonous concrete housing blocks painted in an unappetizing grey colour; the dusty, straight streets lined with characterless shop buildings; and an desolate, cheerless atmosphere that preside over most of the townscape. Although politically part of Turkey, the prolonged period of Russian rule and proximity to Russian cultural influences have left deep marks on the psyche of Kars. The town is certainly not one of those ordinary Anatolian-Turkish towns which one comes across so frequently whilst travelling across Turkey.
The name of the city means 'snow' in Turkish, and all the lamposts in the centre are painted with the motifs of two pretty snow flakes. There is a more to this name than its romantic connotation, however; Kars is among the coldest place in the whole of Turkey, where in winter temperature could easily drop to well below - 20 degrees Celsius, and the whole region would remain snow-capped for most of the winter. Even in early October, when the sun was still shining, I could already feel the chilly cold winds sweeping from across the mountains of the Caucasus seeping through my cashmere pullover, sending shivers down my spine. I could hardly imagine how life is like in the deep, dark winter months. One thing is for sure: conditions in winter must have been very harsh. Little wonder that many Turkish army conscripts try at all costs to avoid being sent to this far-flung military post on the very edge of Turkey.
Among the legacy of the Russian occupation of Kars is the presence of many beautiful wooden Russian-style houses, some of which are still very well preserved. In terms of architectural styles, these pretty houses with verandas and decroated ceilings remind me a lot of the Cape-Dutch style architectures seen in plenty in the idyllic town of Stellenbosch in South Africa.
One of the former Russian houses is now the most expensive and up-market hotel in Kars: the aptly named Otel Kar's. Situated in an elegant former Russian stone mansion, this boutique hotel with only seven rooms is a real gem in this otherwise dull city. Each room is individually decorated with some of the finest materials and period furnitures. Such elegance and luxury comes at a price: rooms start with 180 euros and upwards per night with breakfast. Not for the faint-hearted but it is certainly very much worth a visit.
Copyrights@2010. All text and photos by YC Cheng. All Rights Reserved.
After several changes of political ownership between Russia/the Soviet Union on the one hand and the Ottoman Empire/Republic of Turkey on the other, the political status of Kars and the neighbouring provinces of Ardahan and Igdir were finalised in the Treaty of Kars in 1921 between the Soviet Union and Turkey, when both sides agreed that these three provinces would remain part of the Turkish Republic.
So much for its disputed history, Kars does look and feel very much a Russian town. When I visited the town in early autumn, the air was already very cold, and it was thick with the smell of burning coal. This smell of coal for heating and hot-water purposes remind me of those grey border towns in the former Eastern Bloc countries, and Kars looks very much like them. The same grey, monotonous concrete housing blocks painted in an unappetizing grey colour; the dusty, straight streets lined with characterless shop buildings; and an desolate, cheerless atmosphere that preside over most of the townscape. Although politically part of Turkey, the prolonged period of Russian rule and proximity to Russian cultural influences have left deep marks on the psyche of Kars. The town is certainly not one of those ordinary Anatolian-Turkish towns which one comes across so frequently whilst travelling across Turkey.
One of the former Russian houses is now the most expensive and up-market hotel in Kars: the aptly named Otel Kar's. Situated in an elegant former Russian stone mansion, this boutique hotel with only seven rooms is a real gem in this otherwise dull city. Each room is individually decorated with some of the finest materials and period furnitures. Such elegance and luxury comes at a price: rooms start with 180 euros and upwards per night with breakfast. Not for the faint-hearted but it is certainly very much worth a visit.
Copyrights@2010. All text and photos by YC Cheng. All Rights Reserved.
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