Lefkosa is the capital of a divided Cyprus. The Green Line patrolled by the UN serves as the de facto border between Northern and Southern Cyprus, and this line runs through the centre of Lefkosa and virtually cuts the city into two separate ethnic enclaves.
The view of the giant flag of the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus carved onto a hillside for all to see. In the night, the flag is lighted with thousands of light bulbs twinkling non-stop in the darkness.
The view of the giant flag of the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus carved onto a hillside for all to see. In the night, the flag is lighted with thousands of light bulbs twinkling non-stop in the darkness.
Nowadays, the once closed crossing point of Ledra Street - located right in the middle of a busy pedestrian street in the heart of Lefkosa's pedestrian shopping zone - is again open to pedestrians after almost five decades. Like the former Checkpoint Charlie in the divided Berlin, the sight of a border crossing right at the centre of Lefkosa's busiest shopping throughfare confers a slightly surreal feeling on a bystander like me.
Prior to its reopening in April 2008, this whole area was a no-man's land, completely sealed off with concrete road blocks. All the adjacent buildings close to this buffer zone on both sides of the Green Lines are evacuated and left to rot in the open. Nowadays one still sees abandoned buildings,empty houses and shops right next to the present site of the crossing. Immigration checkpoints on the Turkish-Cypriot side are housed in make-shift cabins. Because this is not recognized by the Greek-Cypriot government as an international border, the passport of those who cross from the one side to the other at Ledra Street crossing will not be stamped. Instead the Northern Cypriot immigration officials will stamp the entry and exit stamps on a separate piece of white paper.
Barely five meters from the immigration checkpoint on the Turkish-Cypriot side of Lefkosa are shops, cafes and restaurants doing brisk business. You can have a cup of coffee or an ice-cream and observe the going-ons at the crossing right in front of you.
On the Turkish-Cypriot side of Ledra Street checkpoint, shops and restaurants abound. Everything can be paid for in euro and in the night, many Greek-Cypriots cross the border into Northern Cyprus to visit the many casinos, betting outlets and night clubs.
To be honest, Turkish-Cypriot sector of Lefkosa is not a very interesting town to visit from the perspective of an occasional tourist like me - and the Ledra Street crossing is probably the most interesting attraction from my point of view, due to its political and historical significance. After all, this is very likely one of the last Green Line crossing points remaining, and normal folks from outside of Cyprus do not have the chance everyday to witness how life is like in a divided city such as Lefkosa.
Moving away from the Green Line, the inner city of Turkish-Cypriot Lefkosa has a few tourist attractions, but none of which really impresses me. There are a few rows of old houses, some old mosques/cathedrals with unique architecture and the occasional picturesque corners here and there, but on the whole, those who are drawn towards historical monuments and night life should head to Famagusta or Kyrenia. It is sad to describe a town in such a way, but Lefkosa (the Turkish-Cypriot sector at least) is the most lifeless town I have ever seen throughout all my years hanging out in the Mediterranean. Although it is not a purpose-built capital such as Pretoria in South Africa or Canberra in Australia, it seems that all these years of division has drained the spirit and fun out of Lefkosa and turn the city into a mere administrative centre without much life after 5pm.
Below is the photo of Lefkosa's caravansaray, located in the turkish-cypriot side of the city. There are handicraft shops on the second floor of the Han, in addition to a lively open-air bar/cafe in the garden facing the drinking fountain.
Inside the courtyard of Lefkosa's Great Han.
Street scene in the Turkish-Cypriot side of Lefkosa makes one feel like time has stood still in the 1970s. There are very few high rise buildings, streets in the town centre are narrow and many old buildings have begun to crumble due to lack of funds to restore them to their former glory.
Now and then, there are a few nice corners in Lefkosa where one can hide from the burning heat of the eastern Mediterranean.
If you are on a self-catering holiday, the covered bazaar of Lefkosa, located near the city's main pedestrian shopping zone, is a good place to shop for fresh fruits and vegetables. Although prices of imported item in Northern Cyprus are about twice that of Turkey, local fresh farm produces are inexpensive and tasty.
Getting there:
From Lefkosa's Ercan Airport, take KIBHAS airport bus to Lefkosa's main bus station, located near the Royal Hotel and Casino.
From there, it is about 10-15 minutes' walk to Lefkosa's city centre and Ledra Street Crossing Checkpoint.
Accommodation:
There are 3 hotels in Lefkosa, all of them are quite pricy (by Turkish standards). Rooms are around 100TL-150TL per night, breakfast included. For those who prefer a more relaxed atmosphere, head straight to Kyrenia, with its better selection of hotels and restaurants.
Copyrights@2010. All text and photos by YC Cheng. All Rights Reserved.
Prior to its reopening in April 2008, this whole area was a no-man's land, completely sealed off with concrete road blocks. All the adjacent buildings close to this buffer zone on both sides of the Green Lines are evacuated and left to rot in the open. Nowadays one still sees abandoned buildings,empty houses and shops right next to the present site of the crossing. Immigration checkpoints on the Turkish-Cypriot side are housed in make-shift cabins. Because this is not recognized by the Greek-Cypriot government as an international border, the passport of those who cross from the one side to the other at Ledra Street crossing will not be stamped. Instead the Northern Cypriot immigration officials will stamp the entry and exit stamps on a separate piece of white paper.
Barely five meters from the immigration checkpoint on the Turkish-Cypriot side of Lefkosa are shops, cafes and restaurants doing brisk business. You can have a cup of coffee or an ice-cream and observe the going-ons at the crossing right in front of you.
On the Turkish-Cypriot side of Ledra Street checkpoint, shops and restaurants abound. Everything can be paid for in euro and in the night, many Greek-Cypriots cross the border into Northern Cyprus to visit the many casinos, betting outlets and night clubs.
To be honest, Turkish-Cypriot sector of Lefkosa is not a very interesting town to visit from the perspective of an occasional tourist like me - and the Ledra Street crossing is probably the most interesting attraction from my point of view, due to its political and historical significance. After all, this is very likely one of the last Green Line crossing points remaining, and normal folks from outside of Cyprus do not have the chance everyday to witness how life is like in a divided city such as Lefkosa.
Moving away from the Green Line, the inner city of Turkish-Cypriot Lefkosa has a few tourist attractions, but none of which really impresses me. There are a few rows of old houses, some old mosques/cathedrals with unique architecture and the occasional picturesque corners here and there, but on the whole, those who are drawn towards historical monuments and night life should head to Famagusta or Kyrenia. It is sad to describe a town in such a way, but Lefkosa (the Turkish-Cypriot sector at least) is the most lifeless town I have ever seen throughout all my years hanging out in the Mediterranean. Although it is not a purpose-built capital such as Pretoria in South Africa or Canberra in Australia, it seems that all these years of division has drained the spirit and fun out of Lefkosa and turn the city into a mere administrative centre without much life after 5pm.
Below is the photo of Lefkosa's caravansaray, located in the turkish-cypriot side of the city. There are handicraft shops on the second floor of the Han, in addition to a lively open-air bar/cafe in the garden facing the drinking fountain.
Inside the courtyard of Lefkosa's Great Han.
Street scene in the Turkish-Cypriot side of Lefkosa makes one feel like time has stood still in the 1970s. There are very few high rise buildings, streets in the town centre are narrow and many old buildings have begun to crumble due to lack of funds to restore them to their former glory.
Now and then, there are a few nice corners in Lefkosa where one can hide from the burning heat of the eastern Mediterranean.
If you are on a self-catering holiday, the covered bazaar of Lefkosa, located near the city's main pedestrian shopping zone, is a good place to shop for fresh fruits and vegetables. Although prices of imported item in Northern Cyprus are about twice that of Turkey, local fresh farm produces are inexpensive and tasty.
Getting there:
From Lefkosa's Ercan Airport, take KIBHAS airport bus to Lefkosa's main bus station, located near the Royal Hotel and Casino.
From there, it is about 10-15 minutes' walk to Lefkosa's city centre and Ledra Street Crossing Checkpoint.
Accommodation:
There are 3 hotels in Lefkosa, all of them are quite pricy (by Turkish standards). Rooms are around 100TL-150TL per night, breakfast included. For those who prefer a more relaxed atmosphere, head straight to Kyrenia, with its better selection of hotels and restaurants.
Copyrights@2010. All text and photos by YC Cheng. All Rights Reserved.
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